When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

I Relocated And Bought Back My1940s Hawthorne Comet

#eBayPartner    Most Recent BUY IT NOW Items Listed on eBay
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
-a
~
%
OAuth Error:2001

z
I plan to very carefully sand down any heavy rust and brush down a water-based rust converter on the rust areas and bare metal, wiping it off before it dries. This will turn the rust and bare metal black. I much prefer a bicycle with original paint and some flaws over one that's been repainted and done to less than factory standards.

Just as an fyi: I've used rust-converters that turn metal/rust black (Loctite Extend), inside the tubes and on the frame. Seems inside the tubing is a good idea, but I didn't care for it on the frame: visually it stood out against the paint because of the color and thickness it added.
I've been using patina solutions from SculptNouveau with good results, then waxing to seal.
Here's a couple shots of the Deep Brown solution applied to some shiny sanding spots on The Green Machine. These will continue to darken until cleaned off. I sometimes use a baking soda solution.
Sorry for the focus, just couldn't get it right this AM:

03092015_012JPG-1.jpg


03092015_013JPG-1.jpg


03092015_016JPG-1.jpg


03092015_017JPG-1.jpg


Works on brass too:

03092015_002JPG-1.jpg


03092015_022JPG-1.jpg


03092015_024JPG-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
DSC00994.jpg
DSC00995.jpg
DSC00996.jpg


These bars are from a 1948 Roadmaster (girls) Does that matter? that I parted sometime late last century.
I suspect this is the type you are needing for your bike along with the stem. If you like them they are yours free, just pay shipping, that's it.
 
The stem is a yes. The handlebars are narrower than what I need. Thanks so much for your generosity!
 
One feature that my first Hawthorne had that I liked was the lighted carrier. I decided I wanted one on this Hawthorne, too. Ccmerz just happened to have one in maroon. In person, it appears to be a perfect color match (it looks a little off in the photos due to lighting and oxidization of the paint on my bicycle). I'm really excited about it.
hawthornecomet29.JPG

hawthornecomet30.JPG


This is one actually from a women's bicycle since it has the light switch on the side (the men's bicycles had 2 extra batteries and a light switch in the tank). But, this works in my favor since my postwar bicycle doesn't have a light switch in the tank.
hawthornecomet32.JPG

hawthornecomet31.JPG


This carrier doesn't have the lovely curved braces like the original one has, but the braces are the same length, so I can pop out the rivets and swap out the legs.
hawthornecomet33.JPG
 
there are people with rivet presses who might be able to re-rivet your lags, ask around, it will look better than putting screws in it.
 
there are people with rivet presses who might be able to re-rivet your lags, ask around, it will look better than putting screws in it.

The rivets in the postwar carrier legs are hollow, and I think I can compress them from the back, push them out, and then reinsert them and widen them again with a punch. The alternative plan was to use smooth fender brace rivet bolts. But, re-riveting would be nice. I will probably have some spray paint color matched so I can paint the replacement seatstay bracket, rivets, and any other parts that are bare metal and supposed to be painted.
 
I rode the Hawthorne tonight. The reason was to make sure that my ankles wouldn't hit the new old stock Wald baskets I installed. The 70-year-oid tires and tubes held up. I still need to go through the bearings--that's why I'm not riding it. But I plan to take it apart and use oxalic acid and polish to make it look its best.

DSC01019.JPG

DSC01022.JPG

DSC01023.JPG

DSC01027.JPG
 
Last edited:
Back
Top