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Interesting. I've never noticed how those were attached originally. Compression fit like a rivet, brazed or what. The bubba way would be to clean it up real good with a Dremel and JB it making sure it fits all the way in the hole without applying any force. If it's bent then it will have to be bent back to where it sets in the hole all the way without using force to push it down or holding it to the original seating position.
I've used a lot of JBWeld, even drilled and tapped it, but that's one application I wouldn't trust it.
A certain other brand of saddle had a tendency to bend the rails, and one bent on me - too much at stake.
Can you show a picture of the side that is still good. If it was riveted you should be able to fix it with a 3/16 pop rivet. I looked at the Ideal 90 I have and the frame is completly different than yours. Roger
Yeah, my thought would be the same. Leather actually tends to be fairly heat resistant, at least good, heavy leather will be. It can dry out and crack with enough heat, but there are lots of applications where leather is used as a heat shield because it resists heat well (e.g., a blacksmith's apron or welder's gloves).
I don't think JB will work here either - would look into a tack weld.
Not directly related to Lou's question, but we talked about it on Saturday's ride - here is the reintroduction of Ideale saddles by Victoire cycles in France
Supposed to be available in September. http://www.victoire-cycles.com/en/news/come-back-idéale-saddles.html
250€
handmade and likely under closer supervision than an equivalent Asian import.
and for those who were asking on Lou's saddle, can't see the failed joint on the top of the frame - it's between the leather rivets.
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