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Installing CWC wrap around chainguards.

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39zep

Wore out three sets of tires already!
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Saw a recent post stating what a pain it was to install the CWC chainguards that wrap the rear cog. My two cents.
Ride your bike without the chainguard. Get your wheel bearings adjusted, chain length set and axle bolts tightened. Making these adjustments with the chainguard on is a pain.
Remove the chainguard side axle bolt.
Use your thin wrenches to hold the bearing race in place while loosening the jam nut. Keep loosening the jam nut and use it to spread the frame. Spread the frame wide enough so the width of the top of the chainguard will fit between the frame and the chain/rear cog.
Rest your chain guard in place in front of the sprocket. Utilize the rear gap to get the chain guard to hook around the axle between the bearing adjuster and the jam nut. Once the rear guard is in place, tighten the jam nut. Just before finish tightening of the jam nut, center the wrap of the chain guard to your rear sprocket. Make sure you have a uniform clearance around the chain.
Replace and tighten axle bolt. Tighten front of chain guard. Putting the chain guard between the bearing adjuster and jam nut allows the guard to sit more square to the frame. See pics. It also allows for wheel/chain length adjustment by loosening front of chain guard, loosen your axle bolts now the rear of the guard stays in place with the hub/cog.
1st pic. Chain guard is between the jam nut and bearing race.
2nd between jam nut and the frame.
Best of luck. My 2 cents. For what it’s worth.
 
Thanks for the tip! It looks like you have a two speed, how many teeth does your cog have? I read in another post that they couldn't fit the guard around the cog.

Thank you
Chad
 
View attachment 832536 View attachment 832537 Saw a recent post stating what a pain it was to install the CWC chainguards that wrap the rear cog. My two cents.
Ride your bike without the chainguard. Get your wheel bearings adjusted, chain length set and axle bolts tightened. Making these adjustments with the chainguard on is a pain.
Remove the chainguard side axle bolt.
Use your thin wrenches to hold the bearing race in place while loosening the jam nut. Keep loosening the jam nut and use it to spread the frame. Spread the frame wide enough so the width of the top of the chainguard will fit between the frame and the chain/rear cog.
Rest your chain guard in place in front of the sprocket. Utilize the rear gap to get the chain guard to hook around the axle between the bearing adjuster and the jam nut. Once the rear guard is in place, tighten the jam nut. Just before finish tightening of the jam nut, center the wrap of the chain guard to your rear sprocket. Make sure you have a uniform clearance around the chain.
Replace and tighten axle bolt. Tighten front of chain guard. Putting the chain guard between the bearing adjuster and jam nut allows the guard to sit more square to the frame. See pics. It also allows for wheel/chain length adjustment by loosening front of chain guard, loosen your axle bolts now the rear of the guard stays in place with the hub/cog.
1st pic. Chain guard is between the jam nut and bearing race.
2nd between jam nut and the frame.
Best of luck. My 2 cents. For what it’s worth.

Thanks for cleaning that up I struggled with that at first. Did you ever find the shifter mount you were looking for a Zep Twin if not I would love to see how you ran the Cable and mounted the shifter
Thank you Sir


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I know when I mounted mine, it was extremely difficult. I dread it when I ever have to pull the rear wheel back off again.:eek:
 
@39zep Thank you for this! I believe it is was me you were referring too! I bet I spent over a hr on this in 109 degree heat! Your the man and thank you for the tip!
 
i just need one of these gaurds for my 40 roadmaster. wish i wouldnt of broke the original mounting tab off.

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