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Is this chain stretched?

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mickeyc

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Skip tooth on my 1930 Columbia. Tight at the top and bottom of the sprocket with this much gap in the middle. Riding it is not smooth. Kinda "crunchy" pedaling. it's adjusted with very little slack and if I tighten all the slack out of it, it really gets sticky. All of the links are flexible.
Any help appreciated.

Mike

IMG_2520.JPG
 
hold each end and see if the middle drops alot,less drop=better chain,and its usually bad pins
 
heres a tip speaking a breakdown aways from home,i have no one to call for assistance so i take my phone with call a cab and tell em to bring a van,walla at home in an air condition ride!! you can go as far as you want with no worries!
 
That's an 88 year old chain and it shouldn't be worn out or stretched yet. That's crazy! :eek:........:D
 
You can measure a straight one foot section pin to pin - the amount over is your wear. That should give you a sense of how bad the chain is worn
 
Looks like you should put a newer chain on the bike if you want to ride it more...If the measurement pin to pin is 1/8" or more longer than the 12" portion of the chain that is being measured, then it's toast. That chain looks to be pretty beat down to me..
 
Once upon a time, I purchased a Super Nice Original Paint `39 Schwinn (no tank or extras) from an Antique shop in a neighboring town. Maroon and Cream- said "Superb" on the down tube. Was too excited- could not wait- got it home, decided to take it for a spin.
This Bike was sharp- always kept inside with original tires (probably tubes, too). I was just about three miles from home when the rear tire blew out. Was a lesson that I never want to repeat. Had my truck keys in my pocket- pushed it home. "Three miles pushing is not three miles riding."" Replace the Dadburn Chain..."Take it from an Old Guy who knows... and You`re welcome...------Cowboy
 
Two quick methods of determining - you have a worn chain if the chain can be lifted significantly off the front of the chainring while the rest of the drive train is at proper tension and meshed with the teeth (in other words everything is set up as if you'd be riding and you can just yank the chain away from the front of the chainring.

If the chain fails the lift-off test, then put a good quality ruler up to the chain and pick a rivet. Measure going along the length of the ruler to see if the rivets deviate from where they should be on the ruler. A very small amount is OK, but if we're talking 3/32"+ deviation then it's a worn chain. Running a worn chain is actually penny wise, pound foolish - it will accelerate wear on the more expensive chainring and cog parts.

If you're worried about the chain snapping - replace it, or at least carry a spare length of chain in the bag and a breaker tool.
 
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Two quick methods of determining - you have a worn chain if the chain can be lifted significantly off the front of the chainring while the rest of the drive train is at proper tension and meshed with the teeth (in other words everything is set up as if you'd be riding and you can just yank the chain away from the front of the chainring.

If the chain fails the lift-off test, then put a good quality ruler up to the chain and pick a rivet. Measure going along the length of the ruler to see if the rivets deviate from where they should be on the ruler. A very small amount is OK, but if we're talking 3/32"+ deviation then it's a worn chain. Running a worn chain is actually penny wise, pound foolish - it will accelerate wear on the more expensive chainring and cog parts.

If you're worried about the chain snapping - replace it, or at least carry a spare length of chain in the bag and a breaker tool.
 
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