Iver Johnson crankarm removal

Discussion in 'Antique Bicycles Pre-1933' started by John D. Williams, Mar 31, 2018.

  1. #1 Posted Mar 31, 2018

    Look Ma, No Hands!

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    This nut is frozen, even after penetrating oil soak. I guess it is normal thread not reversed? I've tried tapping it with hammer and screwdriver so far. Any suggestions? It's a pre-1910 Iver Johnson. P3310315.JPG
     
  2. #2 Posted Mar 31, 2018

    Finally riding a big boys bike

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    6e249056ce4a58aa8c4af1ad01e73c4b.jpg you are correct... Left to loosen on that one


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  3. #3 Posted Mar 31, 2018

    Finally riding a big boys bike

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    If you have a torch I would suggest heating it up


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  4. #4 Posted Mar 31, 2018

    Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe

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    I made a slotted tool. That’s the only way to get it off both by notches turning at the same time. Pounding on one is not enough. A Large handle for torque makes smooth work out of it, Yes It’s reversed threaded.
     
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  5. #5 Posted Mar 31, 2018

    I live for the CABE

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    sorry, have to correct to avoid damage. When the nut is on the drive side, it is regular right hand threads, not left handed. Unscrew it counter clock wise.
     
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  6. #6 Posted Mar 31, 2018

    Cruisin' on my Bluebird

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    Sorry,,,IF You Tap It,,,,Do It on Both Sides; 1 and 1 Towards the Left Both!!!
    Good Luck!
     
  7. #7 Posted Mar 31, 2018

    Look Ma, No Hands!

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    Thanks; by the way how do I get to your IJ collection that you mention?
     
  8. #8 Posted Mar 31, 2018

    Riding a '37 Dayton Super Streamline

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    My Iver came with this tool set. V/r Shawn

    DSC_1252 - Copy.JPG
     
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  9. #9 Posted Mar 31, 2018

    Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe

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    Thank you iver monitor...my bad lol.
     
  10. #10 Posted Mar 31, 2018

    Finally riding a big boys bike

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    I made a tool out of a heavy duty paint scraper with the right thickness to the blade. I ground the chisel end flat and a notch out of the center of the blade to clear the crank bolt. Though the handle was a nice one, for leverage, I used a pair of vise grips on the blade close to the nut.

    If you can find it, the best penetrating oil I've found is Zep 45 or Zep PLS. The latter also works MUCH better than WD40 as a protectant. Not cheap, but they're big cans and every last drop comes out of them, so they last a long time. I used it in in a previous life as a marine mechanic and if soaking a couple of applications didn't free it, you were going to need a torch or angle grinder. However, that's more a general knowledge thing as that doesn't look too corroded to me.
     
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  11. #11 Posted Apr 1, 2018

    Look Ma, No Hands!

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    Well, thank you for all the replies! As I mentioned, I am getting this bike back on the road for a friend. Since I am not experienced, nor have the needed equipment, for making a tool for this, or for torching it, would anyone be willing to let me "rent" theirs, i.e. I pay postage from and back to you, and a user fee? You would have my address so you would "know where to find me" haha. It's the only solution I can think of for this. I guess PM me if interested.
     
  12. #12 Posted Apr 2, 2018

    Look Ma, No Hands!

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    As it turns out, I am able to loosen the other side to get some motor or crankcase oil into the BB, and this should be enough to get the bike going, to loosen up the existing grease. The crankarm was turning well anyway.
     
  13. #13 Posted May 6, 2018

    On Training Wheels

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    Once you get the outside nut off, mine is not on the driver side, what do you do next? I cant seem to get the crank arm off.
     
  14. #14 Posted May 6, 2018

    On Training Wheels

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    Once you get the outside nut off, mine is not on the driver side, what do you do next? I cant seem to get the crank arm off.
    does any one have a video?