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Johnson's Wax question

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marching_out

Finally riding a big boys bike
So I've used Johnson's on some of my chrome pieces. I put on a thin film and let it dry. However, I found it to be incredibly difficult to remove after drying. Now, I'm working on a new project where I'm using WD40 and steel wool on painted surfaces to remove the rust and bring back the paint. I want to put a top coat of Johnson's on everything and wonder if I should be putting on the thin film and leave it or should I be polishing it after it dries?

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Oxalic Acid sometimes weakens the color of red paint, but in the condition of your frame. I don't think it will matter . Steelwool and wd-40 is never an option on paint. Strip that frame down to the bare bones. You can not do a good without doing that. Go to Ace hardware and spend 9 bucks for some O X. look up how to do it here in the Restoration thread. Soak all the plated parts in any one of the recommended rust removers mentioned here on the Cabe. Then wax everything. No steelwool, never. It will turn out great...Have fun!
I thought about this a little more....Why don't you try using a paste "cleaner" wax, instead of the steel wool. Wax tends to stick itself into the rust , and I see the rust that's in your paint. There are some other products that can get the rust out of your paint. Spend some time reading about the different products that are being used here on the Cabe. Citric acid [ lime juice] can be bought in powder form and mixed with water. Soak the whole frame, then use the cleaner wax. Be extremely careful ,around striping, it disappears fast.
 
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If I may say wax on metal is totally different than wax on wood, that being said I have used wax on both with mixed results on both. Johnson’s is junk, let me be frank here. If you want to use a wax move to a European paste wax of better quality that contains Carnuba. When you allow a wax to totally dry on your surface you have to use a poop load of elbow grease to finish it off and make it look good. Often, it’s best to begin polishing when the wax just begins to dry, so you can still work it. For some applications OOOO steel wool is good and it cuts the wax, if that seems to abrasive use a cloth. After all that try finishing off with a chamois, works wonders. Wood absorbs some of the wax, like it does oil, in the grain, metal on the other hand only can absorb so much in dry paint or rust and pitting, then you have to just remove the excess. Good luck!
 
I used Turtle Wax paste the one time I tried that, I do think a good washing and scrubbing is needed before and rub it out/off. Worked for me.
 
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