KLUNKER BUILD QUESTION

[all riders]

Has anyone here used the newer Sturmey Archer internal 5 speed on their klunker? they are built to a 135mm rear spacing which seems like a pretty big "cold set"--bend. I think it would require spreading the rear fork and then bending the dropouts back into parallel---I'm just wondering if someone here has done it, Thanks

 

[GTs58]

I cold set a middleweight frame that had a Sturmey 3 speed to 5.125" 130.175mm with no problem. I didn't see the need to bend the drop outs but in your case it may need to be done, it shouldn't take much. The original spread on the frame was 4-7 1/16".

 

[birdzgarage]

If you are actually building a real klunker that will be used in the hills and mountains,dont use an internal geared hub.these type of hubs dont have the internal strength to handle the abuse.if you are building something to cruise pavement then they are fine.they also dont shift under load so you cant downshift on a climb unless you coast or stop.the loads and stress will grenade the insides.a true functional klunker should be built to get you there and back no matter what.unless you want to push or carry it off the mountain that is.ive put several hundred hard miles on both of mine since built and never had to walk home.and since im on the subject,there are some nice books and lots of information online about early klunker style builds besides looking at some of the properly built bikes on here.its kind of a specific type of bike.they dont have chainguards,tanks,fenders,baskets or street tires.some bmx cruisers ride the line or are refered to as a klunkers quite often.its kinda like all the people that look at a beautiful traditional style hotrod build or a true 60s kustom car and call it a rat rod.

 

[coasterbrakejunkie1969]

Thank you, best description of what a klunker is yet. Answers a bunch of my questions. I was going to use a internal 3 speed not now. Ill get it right eventually.

If you are actually building a real klunker

 

[all riders]

If you are actually building a real klunker that will be used in the hills and mountains,dont use an internal geared hub.these type of hubs dont have the internal strength to handle the abuse.if you are building something to cruise pavement then they are fine.they also dont shift under load so you cant downshift on a climb unless you coast or stop.the loads and stress will grenade the insides.a true functional klunker should be built to get you there and back no matter what.unless you want to push or carry it off the mountain that is.ive put several hundred hard miles on both of mine since built and never had to walk home.and since im on the subject,there are some nice books and lots of information online about early klunker style builds besides looking at some of the properly built bikes on here.its kind of a specific type of bike.they dont have chainguards,tanks,fenders,baskets or street tires.some bmx cruisers ride the line or are refered to as a klunkers quite often.its kinda like all the people that look at a beautiful traditional style hotrod build or a true 60s kustom car and call it a rat rod.

Thanks for your input! I'm pretty familiar with what a real Klunker is(I'm the right age, and totally immersed in competitive riding at the time), I put my question to the Klunker builders because they are most likely to have tweaked a frame out to 135mm. I do have a Atom 5 speed drum that I was going to use but am tempted by the internal. I know they're not tough(maybe Rohloff ?), but I don't ride hard anymore. However, your point about shifting under load is very good--I appreciate it and think I'll go a different route. Maybe the Atom or single speed Morrow.

 

[birdzgarage]

I know the rohloff is a very high quality hub and in a class of its own and very expensive.i dont know if its capable of shifting under load.if your not gonna do hard climbs and light use multispeed internals are great hubs and shift smooth.i love my atom hubs but anything you can use a derailleur to shift can be used. The spread shouldn't be a problem,just make sure wheel is centered when done.i just grab the frame in the big vise at the bottom bracket and pull each side evenly. Pull on the seat stay and chain stay together.Post up picks of your build.we would all love to see it.