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Late 30's Double Curve Roadster?

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You got a deal on the head badge! That headtube is junk. That a pretty big project right there to fix that. Not to mention frame alignment.
 
I disagree with that assessment, I think that it is fine and will make a fine bike. If you study the Schwinn Electro Forging technique of frame construction it explains how it was done. Great article on Sheldon Brown explains it well. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/varsity.html


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Here are some close ups of the welds. Looks like a repair to only the top tube(?). I'll have it looked at by a pro. Sooo, who wants to sell me some Roadster parts? :flushed:

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After seeing those close-ups I think you are going to have real issues. I don't think head cups will even go in there! I think this is one of those live and learn experiences. V/r Shawn
 
I disagree with that assessment, I think that it is fine and will make a fine bike. If you study the Schwinn Electro Forging technique of frame construction it explains how it was done. Great article on Sheldon Brown explains it well. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/varsity.html


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Except this isn't electoforged... prewar...


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After seeing those close-ups I think you are going to have real issues. I don't think head cups will even go in there! I think this is one of those live and learn experiences. V/r Shawn

Yeah I wouldn't trust that at all


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If you don't trust it, I'll take it off your hands for ya

Well, I've owned it for about 15 hours so I'm not ready to part with it just yet, lol. I'm motivated to give it one hell of a try. My biggest concern is material loss inside the head tube. I'm searching for a workaround. Meanwhile, I'd like to determine whether the head tube was repaired in place or off the frame completely, so if anyone can provide the lengths on the top and bottom bar of their roadster, that should get me started. I think.
 
Have you determined the bearing cups your using? The material loss you spoke of inside the head tube might be a normal by product of the seamed tubing process and the thinner portion of the tube was placed forward as not to be exposed to the welding heat and risking burn through? If the tube bore is ovalized then flat shim stock could be used to make up the difference and hold the cups secure?


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Heck they don't even look round. Unless you have some decent metal working skills this is a project better off not pursuing. I'm not alone here in suggesting this. If you are hell bent on spending about three times what the bike is worth finished then go for it. Otherwise I'd move on. V/r Shawn
 
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