Look Ma, No Hands!
- Feb 6, 2018
- Columbus, OH, USA
Looking for a fork for my late 30's Hiawatha CWC built, need all the hardware also....thank you
Can you post a picture of the bike? I should have the fork you need, if it's CWC made, but I have a feeling, it's a postwar 40's bike, not 30's, or it's a Hawthorne, and not Hiawatha. Hiawathas weren't made by CWC in the 30's, they were only made after the war by CWC.
a shop can thread that? I didnt think any bike shop could handle that, thats a great idea!! There is no serial number under the bottom bracket, nothing on the crank arm either. Where else can I look? You think its a '40's also? this purchase is giving me nitemares!!!I agree with the above regarding age, etc. It looks to me like the fork type is correct for the bike, but it is from a girls bike so the steering tube is too long. I would take it to a bike shop and have them thread it further down so it fits and then cut off the excess. I have basically the same bike in original condition.
awesome, yes, I might be interested, that looks perfect. I have a fork being sent to me that is 7", but the threads start at 4.5, so I could possibly cut some off the steerer tube and chase the threads clean. I wish I could use the springer style that came with the bike , but all that cutting might not work. This fork is one of the many problems I am facing with this internet buy....lesson learned. I suppose the serial # is buried under all that paint, I cant even see a hint of it. I hate not knowing the year. Rookie mistakes made.I think it is early 1950's. Mine is a 1953 and is almost identical to yours. Yes, a good bike shop can add threads to your fork. The problem with doing so is that then the upper truss rods will be too long and will need to be cut and threaded also. That part can be a pain in the butt. If you determine you still need cups, etc., I have a nos Wald replacement set that I believe is correct for your frame. Also after measuring a comparable frame here, should you choose to replace the fork, the steering tube should measure 6 1/2 inches from the top of the lower race to the top of the threads.
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wow, so even with those rear axle adjusters, its a post war? I could screamThe fork you have purchased should work as that is plenty of threads. I thread a bearing cone on before cutting the tube so when I remove the cone it helps to clean the cut edge. In the catalog reprints the tank with the 3 bars only appears in ads for 1953 and 1954.
thank you Gordon, I trusted the sellers word and it looks like I paid too much for a basket case bike, that's quite a difference between 1936 and 1953. The photos showed the bottom bracket was painted, so I couldnt check the serial#. I just ordered a fork and I hope this one fits,( #3) I hate going thru trial and error. I love this hobby, but can be frustrating. The CABE is a wealth of knowledge, thanks again. So if this bike is a '53, who built it? CWC?Some people often think that rear axle adjusters and/or skip tooth chain means prewar. But the fact is some manufacturers were using one or both into the early 50's.
Thats a very valid point Gordon. I believe you are right on the money there. So now, I can research '50's Hiawatha and see what is correct. I love that it is CWC, very happy there.It is very possible the seller didn't know what year the bike was - he could have been going on what someone else told him. I have run into people who swear the bike they have is the one they got when they were kids 50 years ago when the bike is obviously only half that old. But it is useless to try and get them to change their minds. And yes, I think we are all in agreement that the bike is CWC made - at least the frame, tank and current fork even though it isn't original to the bike. The chain guard is aftermarket and the rear rack doesn't appear to fit properly so I'm not sure what is up with that.