Lightest steel road bike frame?

[49autocycledeluxe]

The frame is just a factor, no one is arguing that. The OP was asking about the frame weights, not gearing, wheels, rolling resistance, frame stiffness, etc.

the point missed here is that "frame weight" within reason has very little to do with anything.

 

[Fritz Katzenjammer]

From Jan Heine’s fantastic book on Rene Herse, this early 1970s ad shows a complete steel framed racer at an all up weight of 6.8kg, which is about 15.96 pounds.

Makes you wonder why we bother with carbon fibre as these bikes were known for being pretty tough.

 

[Real1]

the point missed here is that "frame weight" within reason has very little to do with anything.

I don't agree....not in bikes. A 3-5lb difference in bikes might give a somewhat mediocre racer enough edge to place in the top tier. Now when you start talking a pound or less with a good racer, then no, it's all about the guy.

I know when I took my LeTour steel wheels off and put on good alloys it was a felt difference. 'Felt' means faster to racers. I'm no racer so I stopped at that point....$150-$200 bike maybe because it's an early Panasonic frame.

Kevin

 

[Real1]

From Jan Heine’s fantastic book on Rene Herse, this early 1970s ad shows a complete steel framed racer at an all up weight of 6.8kg, which is about 15.96 pounds.

Makes you wonder why we bother with carbon fibre as these bikes were known for being pretty tough.

View attachment 2131759

Very cool! Makes me wonder what the SBDU Raleigh race bikes were in the same time period similarly equipped. I would suspect similar weights, especially with the Reynolds 753 frames. They have a IO Group now that was ported from the old Yahoo Groups. Complete with ex-racers(some famous) and people who worked in the SBDU group at the factory. They don't post much anymore.....kinda like sleeping giants. There are files and a directory though......


I've seen many carbon fiber bikes with degradation issues over time. Almost as if they were thought to be disposable when made or a 'lifespan' of sorts. Plenty of them around for cheap.....I'll stay with metal.

Kevin

 

[Fritz Katzenjammer]

Very cool! Makes me wonder what the SBDU Raleigh race bikes were in the same time period similarly equipped. I would suspect similar weights, especially with the Reynolds 753 frames. They have a IO Group now that was ported from the old Yahoo Groups. Complete with ex-racers(some famous) and people who worked in the SBDU group at the factory. They don't post much anymore.....kinda like sleeping giants. There are files and a directory though......


I've seen many carbon fiber bikes with degradation issues over time. Almost as if they were thought to be disposable when made or a 'lifespan' of sorts. Plenty of them around for cheap.....I'll stay with metal.

Kevin

Before I retired and went to work at a bike shop I spent most of my working life in plastics and composites. I don’t trust them once they get old. Even materials which should last won’t if they aren’t processed properly during the final mixing or molding processes. I’ve seen compounds degrade back into a mush after a short period of time because they weren’t mixed or cured properly. More interestingly, I’ve seen chemical components from one improperly mixed or cured compound attack and dissolve nearby plastics in an assembly. Makes you wonder about all these composite components made offshore by unskilled labour.

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

I don't agree....not in bikes. A 3-5lb difference in bikes might give a somewhat mediocre racer enough edge to place in the top tier. Now when you start talking a pound or less with a good racer, then no, it's all about the guy.

I know when I took my LeTour steel wheels off and put on good alloys it was a felt difference. 'Felt' means faster to racers. I'm no racer so I stopped at that point....$150-$200 bike maybe because it's an early Panasonic frame.

Kevin

A three-pound difference in "total bike weight" is not a big deal.

Taking "three pounds" out of the revolving wheel weight by reducing the rim/tire/tube weight is HUGE and will result in a measurable performance improvement. In the 1970's I rode a 23" Lime Green Varsity back and forth to work after I crashed my Paramount. I simply removed the Paramount wheels and placed them on the Varsity, no other changes, "It was a nice riding bike".

All weight on a bicycle is not the same. If you empty both of your water bottles, you will not be able to tell the difference in ride. But taking that same excess weight out by removing your thorn-resistant tubes and replacing them with thin performance inner tubes is very noticeable. Upgrading wheels and tires offers a good return for the money spent.

Having sold, owned, and ridden Carbon Kestrels I believe the advantage to using carbon is that you (the engineer's) can tailor the ride to the rider. It can be made to ride soft and flexible for a century rider or ridged for the sprinter. I do not believe that steel bikes will ever be able to match the aero advantages of the new wind tunnel designed carbon bikes. Most of the advantages are for the hardcore competitors, not the weekend warriors that have the money to buy, and the "improved performance" dreams.

John

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

From Jan Heine’s fantastic book on Rene Herse, this early 1970s ad shows a complete steel framed racer at an all up weight of 6.8kg, which is about 15.96 pounds.

Makes you wonder why we bother with carbon fibre as these bikes were known for being pretty tough.

View attachment 2131759

Not only was it artwork, but it was also light because of the Huret Jubliee derailers.

John

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

Lemond had some great steel frames in the late 90’s early 2000’s that are really nice and still modern enough that you can use newer components. You can find them extremely cheap. I just saw a Zurich (complete bike) in nearly new condition sell for $400. But that doesn’t meet you 32c tire requirement. Maybe you can get 30c with no tread if you’re lucky.

Perhaps an older CX frame? Now with disc brakes and 40c or bigger tires, older more traditional cross bikes can be found pretty cheap. Although steel isn’t so common. Gunnar’s might be a good one to look at, but probably not the easiest to find. Or perhaps an older Ti bike?

Just a notation, that Richard Schwinn built Gunnar's at Waterford Performance. I believe they were named after the shop's dog.

Your correct in that there are hundreds of high-quality steel frames available every day for "really cheap" advertised prices.

John

 

[Real1]

A three-pound difference in "total bike weight" is not a big deal.

Taking "three pounds" out of the revolving wheel weight by reducing the rim/tire/tube weight is HUGE and will result in a measurable performance improvement. In the 1970's I rode a 23" Lime Green Varsity back and forth to work after I crashed my Paramount. I simply removed the Paramount wheels and placed them on the Varsity, no other changes, "It was a nice riding bike".

All weight on a bicycle is not the same. If you empty both of your water bottles, you will not be able to tell the difference in ride. But taking that same excess weight out by removing your thorn-resistant tubes and replacing them with thin performance inner tubes is very noticeable. Upgrading wheels and tires offers a good for the money spent.

Having sold, owned, and ridden Carbon Kestrels I believe the advantage to using carbon is that you (the engineer's) can tailor the ride to the rider. It can be made to ride soft and flexible for a century rider or ridged for the sprinter. I do not believe that steel bikes will ever be able to match the aero advantages of the new wind tunnel designed carbon bikes. Most of the advantages are for the hardcore competitors, not the weekend warriors that have the money to buy, and the "improved performance" dreams.

John

I would concede that.....removing weight from the wheels makes the 'felt' difference more than other places. Having a water bottle(s) in the center of the frame would not constitute a 'felt' difference. Yet replacing a steel crank setup with an alloy crank setup will feel like adding rocket fuel....reducing the weight of the revovling pedal mass.

Kevin

 

[Monarkman]

easier to just buy a 19 lb bike. older high end road bikes can be found for $500 - $600.00 since everybody wants carbon fiber now. steel bikes are for old guys

speed comes from the wheelset more than anything else. I could spin my Lemond wheels for 10 minutes with one good yank. when they stopped the the air valve would drop to the bottom due to the weight.

better yet rather than trying to build a light bike just lose 5 - 10 pounds or lie when people ask how much it weights. light weight is over rated

Thank you!