Lightweight locking fork question

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Schwinny

Finally riding a big boys bike
I had one of the pre-war "flat top" type New World forks with both a lock and a caliper brake. I sold the bike quite awhile ago. I bought a new key and everything for it. The set up requires a different caliper bolt that has a blind mount to the front of the fork crown.

View attachment 1433722
Interesting... more mud to the mix.
Mine has that same caliper set-up
Do you remember or know if it had any special type of lower head bearing cup?
 

SirMike1983

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
I don't recall what the bearing cup was on the fork. I didn't change the races, at least I don't recall doing that. It looks to me like you have the correct caliper bolt for the locking fork. It threads into the fork itself, and then a nut with splines on it locks the fork in place against the fork crown. It's a fiddly set up to get just right. The front fender also has a little different set up in that the bracket mounts to the front of the crown rather than the rear. A standard front brake set up is easier to set up and adjust correctly. The locking fork is interesting and probably a little more collectible, but I prefer the standard because I'm picky about brake feel and function, and it's easier to adjust the standard.
 

GTs58

I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
Shazaaam!
On this sheet is an answer to a question I asked a few weeks back !!
I was looking for a chrome (stainless) crown for a balloon tire fork and as people looked through their things and we looked through the catalogs looking for a pictured example, we came to the conclusion that the balloon tire models never came with a fork crown of this type.
This sheet shows Part #2604 as a crown for a balloon tire fork.
Apparently in the league with hens teeth.
Wonders never cease.
Those fork crowns came about on the 1959 models and at that time the only balloon tire bikes were the Cycle Truck, Phantom and Wasp. The Phantom had a springer and I don't think the CT ever had them. The Wasp was first seen with them on the 1962 models so those balloon fork crowns are like hens teeth. I never checked the later 70's balloon Spits or Cruisers to see what size they have, but that's probably your only field to harvest.
 

GTs58

I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
I've got a locking lightweight fork I've been staring at for quite awhile. A few weeks ago I decided to start moving in the direction of getting it ready to put on a bike.
I sent the lock to Wes and he's got it all ready but brought up a point that I'll need to address.
I guess this question is for those that have a lightweight with a locking fork or someone with the parts lists.
Is there a special lightweight locking fork bearing cup or are they all the same? I've noticed these special lower bearing cups listed as being for the springers but haven't seen them listed for standard type forks (or truss type for that matter) on the balooners. And since these forks are pretty rare on lightweights, If there is a special one for lightweights, its probably impossible to find.
I mocked it up to start with and it works to lock the pin into the downtube recess but there is a lot of play so I imagine these use a special lower bearing cup also.
Wes mentioned a pin inside the head tube to place the bearing cup which leads me to believe the frame head tubes are special made for locking forks also but I can deal with that I'm sure. I can even make a properly drilled bronze sleeve to drive up there if it comes to that, but proper parts in the first place are of course are better.
Anybody know?
Schwinn had multiple types of head sets and the balls ranged from 1/8" to 3/16". The deluxe head set used 5/32" caged balls and there is a head set that takes 5/32" at the top and 3/16" at the bottom. If your mock up was sloppy see if the ball size was the 5/32".
 

Schwinny

Finally riding a big boys bike
Schwinn had multiple types of head sets and the balls ranged from 1/8" to 3/16". The deluxe head set used 5/32" caged balls and there is a head set that takes 5/32" at the top and 3/16" at the bottom. If your mock up was sloppy see if the ball size was the 5/32".
That would affect the vertical.
The recess in the head tube that the lock pin enters, and extends to the downtube for welding together, is almost the size of a nickel. The movement is in the horizontal (back and forth). The 1/4" pin slopping around in a nickel size hole, creates a moment arm that turns into 3" of movement at the wheel and handlebars. The first couple times its janked back and forth will mess things up in the pin/lock mech.
If there isn't a special bearing cup then I imagine that this area is prepped beforehand on a lock equipped head tube.
The frame I'm going to use isn't one that came with a locking fork.
Or... maybe the Continental is the only head tube that is prepped for the lock pin before hand so it doesn't need the special bearing cup. Hmmmmm.
The head tubes are the same size.
I think maybe I'll get one of these special bearing cups and see where that gets me.
Thanks for all the prodding, it makes me think on it more.
 

Schwinny

Finally riding a big boys bike
I don't recall what the bearing cup was on the fork. I didn't change the races, at least I don't recall doing that. It looks to me like you have the correct caliper bolt for the locking fork. It threads into the fork itself, and then a nut with splines on it locks the fork in place against the fork crown. It's a fiddly set up to get just right. The front fender also has a little different set up in that the bracket mounts to the front of the crown rather than the rear. A standard front brake set up is easier to set up and adjust correctly. The locking fork is interesting and probably a little more collectible, but I prefer the standard because I'm picky about brake feel and function, and it's easier to adjust the standard.
Oh, yeah Im sure of that fiddling issue.
I even thought of putting one of the early Weinmann center pull calipers in place of the original caliper. I'd have to make up a mounting stud situation for it though so I thought Id try the original one first.
I've planned on putting this on my FrankenLightweight that currently has a Tange on it.
I'll lose the smoothness but it will be a good display bike for all the coolest parts Schwinn has made that will fit.
The Tange is a 21mm i.d steer tube and this older one will also allow me to put the long stem dbl adjustable stem on that's been waiting. That stem will help get the bars up higher for me since I really need the grips about 3" above the seat for comfortable riding. I have a right arm issue that won't allow me to ride in too much of a bent over fashion for very long.
I'll never win any races. In a sit-up position I'm more like a quick rolling brick going down the road. :)
 
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