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If you read deeper into Brandt's second link I posted above, you can see where he states the slippage builds up from the canting of the pinion pins and axle deformation. That is probably why yours slips intermittently as the slippage continually increases under torque for x number of revolutions.

It is an inherently poor design that SA refused to address whilst blaming all the injured riders for improper cable adjustment.

...Two features that cause disengagement occur only under continuous hard
torque. The four pinion pins, that fit loosely in the planet cage,
cant slightly under pressure from the clutch (driver cross),
to an

off-perpendicular angle so that the bearing surface with the clutch
slopes toward disengagement.

Meanwhile, chain loads on the hub cause

the axle to bend slightly so that the active parts (planet cage and
clutch) displaced along the axle, rotate about separate skewed axes to

each other. During rotation, the four bearing faces of the clutch
each experience reciprocating motion of the planet pins that, through
their slant, generate disengaging creep. The engagement spring is no
match for these forces.


In addition to the disengagement forces, caused by pin skew and axle
flex, the clutch faces develop indentations from the slanted pins that
enhance disengagement. This is clearly visible on any used clutch.

This problem could have been resolved by putting a slight inward taper
to the ends of the planet pins and a similar matching slant on the
bearing faces of the clutch, giving their engagement a preferential
retaining force instead of the opposite. Most motorcycle gear boxes
use such features, especially in older non-synchronized sliding gear

boxes... the classic clunk of BMW boxes for instance.
 
Correct. Yes I did read all of it...the slight bevel, or canting on the driver arms matching a bevel on the end of the pinion pins would solve the problem as mentioned by the tranny experts, but the metal used here is heat hardened and would need special and precise machining of the pins and driver to match perfectly....a Dremel was suggested but not accurate enough. As mentioned, just a poor design not for hammering on...can you say Sachs Dreigang?
 
This is what I find personally curious about this 3rd gear slippage. As a longtime bike guy, and having worked at 4 different Raleigh dealerships (2 small and 2 big), I never recall these issues...either with my Tourist or LTD, or any customer's bicycles. To my knowledge, no one was a member of the "Over Bars Club" from gear slippage (hereafter referred to as the OBC). Of course, there were any number of other SA gear issues from improper cable adjustment to ruined hubs from improper maintenance and salt.

All of these shops were in flatland so folks weren't doing much hill climbing to speak of, so topography could be a contributing factor. But people still occasionally honked on them in 3rd gear, especially starting out. Maybe its my memory, nah...it's perfect. :cool:
 
Out with the old, in with the new!
1101382


New radiator for my '06 Chrysler 300c work car this weekend. :) Also some new winter wiper blades and washer nozzles. Sorry. No pics. :p:p
 
@SKPC just has too much power. Obviously more than us mortals....
I am mortal for sure, but do break stuff all the time. Here is a good example of it
For the last few rides on my new Ibis, there has been a mysterious crankset squeak that appeared. It was one I could not locate, so I kept riding for 5 more rides. Today, after another ride it was still noisy, so I pulled the crank and found this! :oops:
1253579

This is an outboard-bearing, 30mm spindle BSA30 threaded drive side bottom bracket cup. Metal failed simply because of a thin design after three weeks of riding. The Race Face cup below clearly sports a thicker/butted design at this area as you can see below.
1253580


1253789
 
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Sturmey Archer TCW weather proof hub. 2nd gear slipping. I have been floundering with the last two TCW hubs that I've laced over the years, including the recent one I just used for my Shelby project. But the TCW is really a nice hub so I used a low-mile one on the wheelset matched to a drum brake front. Straight away it slipped easily out of 2nd gear. Went through all the schematics and procedures, inspected many times each part, and no fixo. Then went in desperation to the page on "possible problems/solutions" that in the end steered me to the answer. There were only two possible causes. 1.)Worn Gear Ring or 2.) Worn Clutch. Looked fine, but.......the failure of the schematic drawings is that they don't show one key area on the Gear Ring that carries the 2nd gear load! I had another loose TCWIII here so took it apart to look at it's gear ring and there you go. Duh! I thought the 45degree taper was ramped that way to allow the clutch to slide up. No, it was the drive surface, no wonder. The answer! I had taken these hubs apart dozen's of times looking for the problem and completely missed it until today. Hopefully someone can learn from this. Slapped it in, went for ride, and problem solved.
See below good and bad Gear Rings.
1294908

All three of the other gear rings I had looked just like this one so I thought it was normal...
1294907

Both Clutches looked ok.
1294906

1294910
 
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I wanted to remove a spin-on, indexed Dura Ace 7-spd freewheel from a Bullseye rear hub of the era... (90's) I found the Park splined insert tool and with a big Crescent wrench gave it a heave or two with no results. More leverage needed so I put the tool flats in my cheap vise and heaved hard on it four or five times...no result. One more big heave and "BAM!" I wanted to get a bigger vise anyway.:rolleyes:
These old thread-on clusters can be a real pita. Particularly if ridden hard then put away for 25yrs. Alu-steel bonds I think over time. I surely put grease on the threads when I installed it if I can remember that far back but so far not coming off. I will follow up with a bigger vise and perhaps some heat on the freewheel.
1365448


1365451

And since we love pictures here is me riding with it on my customized Trek 8700 back in the day....
1365461
 
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I've had a few stubborn freewheels and it's definitely a pain. The old Atom two shot freewheels require a BA easy out tool, and then your chances of getting it off are increased by a few percent. Not sure if you'll be able to salvage that vice though. :joycat:
 
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