bricycle
I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
Somebody on here got it I believe....cheaply too.
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Model 1588 Iver Johnson Arch Truss Roadster -- To refinish or not to refinish
- Thread starter Iverider
- Start date
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Somebody on here got it I believe....cheaply too.
Iverider
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
So in lieu of my inability to read the label on the nipples that I got from Filmonger, I didn't get to build my wood wheels last night.
The front hub is repacked and ready to rock, but the rear is not. I decided ton concentrate on some other things so I switched out my old seatpost for the extra long post I won on eBay a week or two ago. You can see the dark spot on the short post is my seat insertion depth. Now I'll have a lot more post in the frame which is a nice thing.
I also inserted the first washer into the rims. The package says to use two per hole. I couldn't figure out exactly which way they are supposed to go, but I decided in the end that the only way they would fit is to insert them taper side to the bottom of the hole. I pressed them in with a small round punch. The seem to have seated well.
I also tried my tires on which is a must when you get shiny new wood wheels. Gotta know what they're going to look like. The tires are WTB Pathway for anyone interested. Rims are CB Italia Natural (White) Finish.
After all of that excitement I switched out my cheesed up cranks for a better looking set that I was given along with a flat front fender that matched the rear Iver fender. I also cleaned and repacked my Torrington Star Quill pedals but forgot to take pics. The races looked perfect and they spin like butter.
Finally got to bed at 4:30 a.m. only to get up at 7 and go to work. Stupid.
The front hub is repacked and ready to rock, but the rear is not. I decided ton concentrate on some other things so I switched out my old seatpost for the extra long post I won on eBay a week or two ago. You can see the dark spot on the short post is my seat insertion depth. Now I'll have a lot more post in the frame which is a nice thing.
I also inserted the first washer into the rims. The package says to use two per hole. I couldn't figure out exactly which way they are supposed to go, but I decided in the end that the only way they would fit is to insert them taper side to the bottom of the hole. I pressed them in with a small round punch. The seem to have seated well.
I also tried my tires on which is a must when you get shiny new wood wheels. Gotta know what they're going to look like. The tires are WTB Pathway for anyone interested. Rims are CB Italia Natural (White) Finish.
After all of that excitement I switched out my cheesed up cranks for a better looking set that I was given along with a flat front fender that matched the rear Iver fender. I also cleaned and repacked my Torrington Star Quill pedals but forgot to take pics. The races looked perfect and they spin like butter.
Finally got to bed at 4:30 a.m. only to get up at 7 and go to work. Stupid.
masini
'Lil Knee Scuffer
Nice job on this one. I'm enjoying the progress (yeah, I'm a newbie and recent lurker).
My experience with wooden rims (I know Mr. Carminati fairly well and have been to his shop a number of times for my Italian restorations) is that you have the washers in backwards. I have a few sets of Ghisallo's and have always seen and built them up in the opposite direction. I've seen them counterbore the holes and place the washers in many times. You may find better luck long-term if you swap them out.
How do you like the WTB's? It's the first I've seen them used on a restoration. I'm considering getting some custom profile Ghisallo's with the carbon insert for my truss Iver and need a new option. Everything I've used in the past are tubular.
Rory
My experience with wooden rims (I know Mr. Carminati fairly well and have been to his shop a number of times for my Italian restorations) is that you have the washers in backwards. I have a few sets of Ghisallo's and have always seen and built them up in the opposite direction. I've seen them counterbore the holes and place the washers in many times. You may find better luck long-term if you swap them out.
How do you like the WTB's? It's the first I've seen them used on a restoration. I'm considering getting some custom profile Ghisallo's with the carbon insert for my truss Iver and need a new option. Everything I've used in the past are tubular.
Rory
GiovanniLiCalsi
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
Ghisallo just shipped my 700c wood/carbon rims.
Hoping to recieve them next week.
I will be using Electra Amsterdam tires.
My son, a bicycle mechanic, will be building the wheels.
Hoping to recieve them next week.
I will be using Electra Amsterdam tires.
My son, a bicycle mechanic, will be building the wheels.
Iverider
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Thanks for the tip Rory. Can you tell me how the shop you went to counterbored the holes to fit the spoke washers in the way that they did it? I stared at the damned things for a good half hour thinking they should just slip in. I decided after that since they were so easily bendable that it didn't matter much and pushed them home to the bottom of the spoke hole with a punch of the appropriate size.
The instructions I received called for doubling the washers so they wouldn't pull through. I have a forstner bit that I could use to counterbore, but I'm kind of shy about cutting into my new rims. Of course if they explode from being laced wrong that won't be any better. I have plenty of washers so I can redo it if need be.
As far as the WTB tires go. They're pretty nice. I have them on my '82 Trek 420 and although I had to pinch the rear chainstays to get the 700-38s to fit, they're cushy, grippy, and pretty nice for the crappy roads around where I live. Recently I've been riding my 29er on the country roads and I'm considering putting a set of these tires on it to make it go a little faster (averaging 10 mph over rolling hills with 2.35" knobbies) I like the chevron pattern of the tires. Looks a little more believable to me, but that's just one opinion. Amsterdams have a gross looking tread when you get up close, but they do look good from 20 feet! Will whoever makes them come out with a button tread or vaccuum cup tire already!!!? Hell a 700-38c smoothie in white would be better than nothing and super easy to make.
The instructions I received called for doubling the washers so they wouldn't pull through. I have a forstner bit that I could use to counterbore, but I'm kind of shy about cutting into my new rims. Of course if they explode from being laced wrong that won't be any better. I have plenty of washers so I can redo it if need be.
As far as the WTB tires go. They're pretty nice. I have them on my '82 Trek 420 and although I had to pinch the rear chainstays to get the 700-38s to fit, they're cushy, grippy, and pretty nice for the crappy roads around where I live. Recently I've been riding my 29er on the country roads and I'm considering putting a set of these tires on it to make it go a little faster (averaging 10 mph over rolling hills with 2.35" knobbies) I like the chevron pattern of the tires. Looks a little more believable to me, but that's just one opinion. Amsterdams have a gross looking tread when you get up close, but they do look good from 20 feet! Will whoever makes them come out with a button tread or vaccuum cup tire already!!!? Hell a 700-38c smoothie in white would be better than nothing and super easy to make.
GiovanniLiCalsi
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
Thanks for posting the photo.
GiovanniLiCalsi
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
Rather than counter-bore the spoke holes, you can press the washers into a steel die or pipe to reduce the outside diameter. This would be less labor and mess.
Iverider
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
I was thinking about that Giovanni. Good idea. I was thinking they would just drop in from the start even though i read on wheel fanatyks blog that they need to go in the way you're all corroborating. Thanks everyone for preventing a bad wheel build! (Or preventing it thus far... No tellin' what I'll screw up next!) Cabers don't let cabers build bad wheels! 
