Need advice to restore ugly old decals

[rennfaron]

Very interesting! I actually have some of this stuff. I used it back in my model building days 25+ years ago. I hadn't thought about using it to repair bubbled bike decals, but seems like aught to work just like you suggest. I think in the case of my bike though, with what appears to be dirt under the clear part, it wouldn't help... but it may be worth trying anyhow.

I would test out that magic eraser trick first on a small area. What might look like dirt embedded under the surface but may be dirt embedded on the surface and into the decal. Those magic erasers are like a very fine pumice stone and slowly strip away layers. You may get some of that embedded dirt off with the erasers and then follow up with the Micro sol / set to improve the look of the decal. And there is no equivalent for the magic eraser, like oh I will just use this instead. I tried a bunch of different things in lieu of the erasers, to not spend the money, and it's gotta be the magic eraser... As you know it is all about the right tools and right sequence of processes to get the best results. Sometimes I hate all the crap I have to do to get each part to look good because each part / material requires something different.

 

[Dave Stromberger]

I would test out that magic eraser trick first on a small area. What might look like dirt embedded under the surface but may be dirt embedded on the surface and into the decal. Those magic erasers are like a very fine pumice stone and slowly strip away layers. You may get some of that embedded dirt off with the erasers and then follow up with the Micro sol / set to improve the look of the decal. And there is no equivalent for the magic eraser, like oh I will just use this instead. I tried a bunch of different things in lieu of the erasers, to not spend the money, and it's gotta be the magic eraser... As you know it is all about the right tools and right sequence of processes to get the best results. Sometimes I hate all the crap I have to do to get each part to look good because each part / material requires something different.

Good thoughts. We have a Magic Eraser in the house, I'll try it in a few moments.

I was looking at the decal closer and what appears to be dirt under the clear part, now looks to me more like yellowing. It looks yellow/brownish where the clear is lifted... the "bubble" really couldn't get dirt under if it's not broken, so...

 

[Dave Stromberger]

Here is the result.

First I went over it with a "cutting" compound, what automotive re-finishers use to remove fine scratches and debris on paint, this helped quite a bit. I suspect this does the same thing that Magic Eraser would do.

Second, I tried the decal solvent "Solvaset"... it wets the decal and makes the ugliness go away while its still wet.. wish I could maintain this look permanently! It softens the decal, but it never did let it lay back down like I'd hoped, or make it invisible after it dried. It looked a bit better, but not much. Then I tried rubbing the solvent with my finger after it had softened it a bit, but was still wet... wow, now we're in business! This "balled up" a lot of grunge. rubbing off all the surface dirt and some of the flaky clear, bringing back the brightness of the lettering.

Finally, after it was dry, I rubbed it down with a finish/polishing compound.

The result looks a lot better, but still not perfect. I suppose it looks "old" still, and that's okay! If I want perfect, I think removing the decal and replacing it is the only way.

I didn't try the Magic eraser... maybe on the other side I'll give that a go.

 

[rennfaron]

Here is the result.

First I went over it with a "cutting" compound, what automotive re-finishers use to remove fine scratches and debris on paint, this helped quite a bit. I suspect this does the same thing that Magic Eraser would do.

Second, I tried the decal solvent "Solvaset"... it wets the decal and makes the ugliness go away while its still wet.. wish I could maintain this look permanently! It softens the decal, but it never did let it lay back down like I'd hoped, or make it invisible after it dried. It looked a bit better, but not much. Then I tried rubbing the solvent with my finger after it had softened it a bit, but was still wet... wow, now we're in business! This "balled up" a lot of grunge. rubbing off all the surface dirt and some of the flaky clear, bringing back the brightness of the lettering.

Finally, after it was dry, I rubbed it down with a finish/polishing compound.

The result looks a lot better, but still not perfect. I suppose it looks "old" still, and that's okay! If I want perfect, I think removing the decal and replacing it is the only way.

I didn't try the Magic eraser... maybe on the other side I'll give that a go.

Definitely a big improvement. Give that magic eraser a shot. Also, I have watched enough of those solvent decal videos to know you can keep working at it but have to do it in passes and let it re-set each time. My understand of it is that you can only work it so much at a time and leave it wet with solvent for so long before it needs to set and try again. On the flip side of that is that I think you could overwork a decal so you need to watch out for that too. I put down a new decal a while back and had to go over it a few times with solvent to get it to look really nice. That said, I don't know how much nicer you need to get it to look because it looks pretty nice, aged and like you said if you want it perfect you need to start all over with a new decal.

 

[Dave Stromberger]

Definitely a big improvement. Give that magic eraser a shot. Also, I have watched enough of those solvent decal videos to know you can keep working at it but have to do it in passes and let it re-set each time. My understand of it is that you can only work it so much at a time and leave it wet with solvent for so long before it needs to set and try again. On the flip side of that is that I think you could overwork a decal so you need to watch out for that too. I put down a new decal a while back and had to go over it a few times with solvent to get it to look really nice. That said, I don't know how much nicer you need to get it to look because it looks pretty nice, aged and like you said if you want it perfect you need to start all over with a new decal.

Good thoughts. Yep, I'm happy enough with it the way it is now. Don't want it to look "worked". I've used this Solvaset for new decals before, particularly on curved surfaces. Stuff is essential to get the decals to lay down nice!

 

[GTs58]

Wonder if TW's rubbing compound is better than the automotive stuff you used. See @schwinnbikebobb 's decal above, and his decal backing was not even deteriorated like yours. I've done the same decal cleaning using the TW rubbing compound. I use an old inverted Hanes sock over my hand, put a dab on the sock and use your finger to start the controlled rubbing process somewhat avoiding the actual decal printing. I keep the sock moist with the compound lightly rubbing until the backing is gone and then wipe off the residue when dried.

 

[Dave Stromberger]

Wonder if TW's rubbing compound is better than the automotive stuff you used. See @schwinnbikebobb 's decal above, and his decal backing was not even deteriorated like yours. I've done the same decal cleaning using the TW rubbing compound. I use an old inverted Hanes sock over my hand, put a dab on the sock and use your finger to start the controlled rubbing process somewhat avoiding the actual decal printing. I keep the sock moist with the compound lightly rubbing until the backing is gone and then wipe off the residue when dried.

I think Bob's decal has a different kind of aging to it than mine. His looks to be mostly just dirty. My decal has- bubbles/lifting under the clear parts that flaked off when polished.