Need guidance on gluing this split wood together. On TOC Bicycle

[Griff2003]

I recently acquired a 100% original Bicycle from the year 1897. Only flaw is here on the rear brace/bracket. It is split where the rivets connect the bracket to the wood. Due to the splitting, the bracket has some play in it, I do not want to drill out the rivets, but at least get the wood back together where it’s split. What wood glue products does everyone recommend? The rest of the fender is immaculate and just want to keep it that way. And also what method to clamp it together? Pictures attached below, and I have one other issue which I address further down

Problem #2 the bracket where one of the struts connect, Is bent on the ear of the brace. And where the bracket is connected is where that split wood is, I want to carefully bend it back without putting any stress on the wood, as I’ve said before the bracket is attached by rivets and I want to at least prevent drilling them out. Any suggestions help, I want to do the right thing and not the WRONG thing and sacrifice the wood. Any methods help!!!!!! I will attach pictures below.

 

[DonChristie]

Got a pic of the whole bike? My thought is you will not get a good fix on the fender with the strut attached. You can get replacement rivets and add aging to them.
Just a thought.

 

[Griff2003]

Got a pic of the whole bike? My thought is you will not get a good fix on the fender with the strut attached. You can get replacement rivets and add aging to them.
Just a thought.

That was my thought. I feel that would be the best way to go. But was seeing if there was a way other wise. But I might have to replace em. Here’s the ride

 

[GTs58]

Removal of the brace and rivets is the best/only way to fix that. Looks like the rivet holes are also compromised by being countersunk in the material. After removal, clean up the fractured area and glue it back together with a good wood glue. Prep the rivet hole(s) so a new rivet will go in. Then wipe some Plastic Wood filler on a new rivet and carefully insert it into the hole letting the wood filler fill any voids and leveling out the head of the rivet with the top of the material. Wipe the excess putty off keeping the new rivet correctly seated. Let dry and then attach the brace.

 

[Griff2003]

Removal of the brace and rivets is the best/only way to fix that. Looks like the rivet holes are also compromised by being countersunk in the material. After removal, clean up the fractured area and glue it back together with a good wood glue. Prep the rivet hole(s) so a new re rivet will go in. Then wipe some Plastic Wood filler on a new rivet and carefully insert it into the hole letting the wood filler fill any voids and leveling out the head of the rivet with the top of the material. Wipe the excess putty off keeping the new rivet correctly seated. Let dry and then attach the brace.

That’s a solid plan! Thank you sir for your help and thoroughness!! Will post an update down the road!

 

[AndyA]

Removal of the brace and rivets is the best/only way to fix that. Looks like the rivet holes are also compromised by being countersunk in the material. After removal, clean up the fractured area and glue it back together with a good wood glue. Prep the rivet hole(s) so a new rivet will go in. Then wipe some Plastic Wood filler on a new rivet and carefully insert it into the hole letting the wood filler fill any voids and leveling out the head of the rivet with the top of the material. Wipe the excess putty off keeping the new rivet correctly seated. Let dry and then attach the brace.

Agree about general approach. Use a low viscosity (thin) epoxy resin to get good penetration on the cracks that go along the grain. As for the crack across the grain, you should probably glue a piece of veneer underneath oriented with its grain in the same direction as the grain in the fender for extra strength. Don't use wood filler; it has little strength. If needed, mix some epoxy with a thickening agent (or sawdust) and fill the holes. After it sets you can redrill the holes. Have fun!

 

[Griff2003]

Agree about general approach. Use a low viscosity (thin) epoxy resin to get good penetration on the cracks that go along the grain. As for the crack across the grain, you should probably glue a piece of veneer underneath oriented with its grain in the same direction as the grain in the fender for extra strength. Don't use wood filler; it has little strength. If needed, mix some epoxy with a thickening agent (or sawdust) and fill the holes. After it sets you can redrill the holes. Have fun!

So the epoxy resin would be a replacement of just plain wood glue? If so for gluing would I just use the resin by itself? I am new to the wood stuff so bear with me. If you could refer me to a specific product I could find in a hardware store. Many thanks!

 

[GTs58]

I'm a Carpenter and I wouldn't even think of messing with an epoxy. You'll end up with big mess all over the fender that can't be cleaned up, or wiped off with a wet rag. After the crack, spit and break are all clean use some type of clamp to see if you can close the damaged areas to where all the cracks are closed and tight. If everything goes back with no loose splinters keeping the split from easily being closed, then you're ready to drown the splits with a good wood glue. I prefer the old Elmers Carpenters glue, it's still better than most all of the new crap on the shelf today. After completely covering all the splits with glue wiping it in to make sure of no voids, a very moderate clamping pressure is all that should be needed. Do not use excessive clamping pressure! Once it's clamped, wipe off the excess glue with a wet rag or sponge, and at that time you should be able to inspect the repair for any misalignment or other issues that might need attention. Dap Plastic Wood filler is made with coarse sawdust and a solvent based glue. It should be plenty hard and dense enough to fill the recessed area from the old rivet head and support the head of the new rivet.

V V V V V V V

wood glue - Search Videos

www.bing.com

 

[Griff2003]

I'm a Carpenter and I wouldn't even think of messing with an epoxy. You'll end up with big mess all over the fender that can't be cleaned up, or wiped off with a wet rag. After the crack, spit and break are all clean use some type of clamp to see if you can close the damaged areas it to where all the cracks are closed and tight. If everything goes back with no loose splinters keeping the split from easily being closed, then you're ready to drown the splits with a good wood glue. I prefer the old Elmers Carpenters glue, it's still better than most all of the new crap on the shelf today. After completely covering all the splits with glue wiping it in to make sure of no voids, a very moderate clamping pressure is all that should be needed. Do not use excessive clamping pressure! Once it's clamped, wipe off the excess glue with a wet rag or sponge, and at that time you should be able to inspect the repair for any misalignment or other issues that might need attention. Dap Plastic Wood filler is made with coarse sawdust and a solvent based glue. It should be plenty hard and dense enough to fill the recessed area from the old rivet head and support the head of the new rivet.

V V V V V V V

wood glue - Search Videos

www.bing.com

I had gotten supplies today according to your directions, so no worries. Just needed some methods and opinions. I got the DAP wood filler and I have some titebond wood glue on hand, haven’t tried the Elmer’s but I will look around for it. And also got some small clamps and not huge ones. Thanks very much for the help!

 

[GTs58]

I had gotten supplies today according to your directions, so no worries. Just needed some methods and opinions. I got the DAP wood filler and I have some titebond wood glue on hand. And also got some small clamps and not huge ones. Thanks very much for the help!

I was just thinking about what I would use for a clamp. After everything is all cleaned up and ready to glue I was thinking maybe see if a twist tie or a skinny zip tie, small gauge electrical wire or something of that nature will hold everything back in place after it has been glued. do some testing on clamping before you apply the glue.