need guidence with sports tourer

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bop

On Training Wheels
picked up a new ride and im trying to get her in working order. dont have any back story on this bike but it seems to have very low if any milage but probably wasnt stored in the best environment
1402917
1402976


replaced tires and lines and all that went swimmingly however ive reached a obstacle where id like some expertise.

the larger chainring will not engage. a couple teeth grab and then the chain starts slipping. i actually got it twice on the first couple test runs but now its simply not happening. my guess is because the slipping chain wore the aluminum chainring past the point where it wants to catch.

my first plan was to replace components. even though the old chain has zero stretch i got this: 1402926

and this:
1402956

the shiny new chainring is NOT going to work. at least not without some additional part(s). but i noticed something... on the new one the two sprockets are much closer together. its almost like someone was switching chainrings around (the larger,54 is alluminum while the smaller, 36 is steal so thats suspect) and left a chain guard on the smaller sprocket that i could simply remove thus solving my problem. shrug. heres some pictures:
1402973

1402978

1402979

so here i am. before i start taking stuff apart and/or sending this new chainring back and/or throwing money at more parts i know nothing about i figured id seek professional advice.

pretty sure if just get a new crankset and id be in, but maybe if removing the smaller "chaingaurd" works i could get away just replacing the large gear thats been worn from chain slipping. the prices for a new nervar crankset seem reasonable but i read it requires a specific and expensive tool to take apart( i do recall improvising a way to take a crank apart in the past... maybe i made some kind of puller i dont really remember) so does does it make sense to buy more standard crank, if this frame will infact accept it?

excuse me if im using incorrect terminology this is not my wheelhouse. also after writing this it seems more a technical issue and less a vintage shwinn topic so sorry if its in the wrong place.

anyway if anyone takes the time to steer me in the right direction id greatly appriciate it!
 

fattyre

I live for the CABE
You bought a chain for a 10 speed cassette. That chain says 10 speed and the mean for the rear cogs, not the total number of speeds. You need a 5 speed chain.

Don’t bother messing with the cranks. Your going down a rabbit hole there.
 
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bop

On Training Wheels
i havent even put the new chain on yet cause i want to fix the problem with the front sprocket first. the chain i have should work fine when i get it right then ill put the new one on


edit: maybe i didnt explain well enough i have the tendency to do that
1403096

my best guess at this point is that the chain cant make the jump to the sprocket because someone left tee chain guard,thats supposed to be on the outside, between them so they are to far apart not only that but the chainguard rubs the chain too furter interfearing.


im just gonna remove it and see what happens
 
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GTs58

I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
One question. After installing new cables did you adjust the front derailleur's stop screws so it would go further out pulling the chain up on the large chain ring?
 

bop

On Training Wheels
yes. the derailer brings the chain where it should be but the big chain ring doesnt grab it. it has to be because the teeth are wore out. turns out its a ta ring and not a nervar so thats why i couldnt find the right pattern. also the other guy was right i was supposed to get a wider chain so i just ordered both and hopefully i can send the wrong stuff back without trouble.
 

GTs58

I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
I don't think that piece you're calling a chain guard is a guard. Metacortex calls it a ramp plate. If that's messed up it may cause your problem. He and Cody are the only ones that I know of that can possibly help you out but they don't show up much anymore.

 

Arnold Ziffel

Look Ma, No Hands!
What you do not realize is that the SPORTS TOURER was 2nd in the SCHWINN hierarchy in 1971 behind the PARAMOUNT!!

It may not have any resale value, or it might.... .....that I cannot say exactly because I just don't know those things..

What I do know is that the SPORTS TOURER has probably among the WIDEST GEAR RANGE of any 10 speed of the Seventies. That is why it was called Sports Tourer, I guess.
Lets see why:
You have 54 teeth & 36 teeth on the two crankwheels at the front!!!
YOU HAVE 34-28-22-17-14 (the five gears at the rearwheel)

You have a GEAR Range from about 28 to 104 which is incredible for a TEN SPEED

How to calculate the GEAR for each:
Numerator = front sprocket
Denominator = rear sprocket

front sprocket DIVIDED BY rear sprocket

You take the result that you get MULTIPLY times 27 (because wheel is 27 inches)

Okay, when you take the result you get and MULTIPLY times 27 that gives you the GEAR


Take that GEAR and multiply it times pi ......remember that pi = 3.14
so GEAR x 3.14 = Inches travelled with each revolution of the pedals

Take that figure you've gotten in inches and divide by 12 to get the amount in Feet that bike travels with each revolution of the pedals.


*****The old SCHWINN LIGHTWEIGHT Owners Manuals back in the day, did have GEAR charts, as did most every other major bicycle maker of quality 10 speed and "road-bikes" .
These GEAR "numbers" gave you instantly compareable "numbers" that the knowledgeable cyclist could use to determine which bicycle or bicycles would meet his or her need requirements as far as gearing was concerned.
IT IS STILL A VERY VALID METHOD OF DOING SO TODAY, ALTHOUGH NO ONE PUBLISHES SUCH DATA TODAY, you do have online plug-in gearing calculators that Do This Exact Same Calculation for you.


HAVING PROBABLY CONFUSED YOU ENOUGH WITH ALL OF THIS, I'LL TRY TO BE BRIEF AS I DON'T HAVE ALL THE INFO THAT YOU WILL NEED TO PROCEED WITH YOUR Sports Tourer PROJECT.
Basically, that bike is not the POS (piece of ____) bicycle such as Varsity-Continental..........basically that is how the "Cyclist" community views Chicago Schwinn bikes other than the PARAMOUNT or the excellent JAPANESE imports badged as SCHWINN which started in about 1972...................
I don't share that "Cyclist" opinion but they are much more concerned with WEIGHT than I am, and I certainly see that their point of view is valid when comparisons of overall bicycle weight are made.
The "Cyclist" community largely determines if any vintage road bike has any value in the used bicycle market.
The Varsity-Continental etc has practically ZERO value as the "Cyclist" community shuns these beasts due to their near 40 pound overall weight. Yes, they are bullet-proof like most all Schwinns but the only folks seeking such heavy beasts are beach cruiser types, and flat-lander, non serious recreational doofuses or just old folks like me who rode such Schwinn 40 pounders more than fifty years ago.
THE SPORTS TOURER is not a 40 pound VARSITY-CONTI piece of trash is what you'll likely hear over at bikeforumsDOTNET.
So even though Schwinns today are the Rodney Dangerfield of the "Cyclist" community, there are a few models like the SPORTS TOURER and of course the PARAMOUNT which are still sought after. So don't just assume what you have is ordinary and like a non loved VARSITY-CONTI.
You'd be a fool to try to stick the heavy chromed steel "garbage" front crank wheels from a VARSITY-CONTI on the SPORTS TOURER because you think shiny looks better..... YOU WILL RUIN ANY VALUE THAT THE BIKE MIGHT HAVE.
You should consider any crank upgrades that are superb quality lightweight components that are better than what the original components are if you do anything!
The Campagnolo derailleur, although not as good or durable as a SUNTOUR or SHIMANO product of the seventies, has significant value to some that are just nuts about "Campy" stuff.
I suggest you ask and research on bikeforumsDOTNET about what you might have before you start changing stuff for low-rent Varsity items. Heck, even that saddle that looks to be a Brooks saddle might have significant value. I don't know if the SPORTS TOURER is valueable as a whole bicycle because its original equipment components as a total sum are heavier than the better Bridgestone, FUJI, PANASONIC lightweight bicycles of the seventies. My guess is that having seen other SPORTS TOURERs with Quality Lightweight Component UPGRADES.....that it could make for a desireable, and modestly valuable ride, something that currently only the PARAMOUNT and the Japanese bikes like WORLD VOYAGEUR which assumed the #2 Schwinn spot by late 1972 even if it didn't appear in the catalog until about 1974 when it was just called VOYAGEUR. Even the basic LeTOUR is sought after as a cheap Schwinn where the Chicago bikes aren't because of their heavier weight. The Japanese did it better and SCHWINN was too slow to realize that by 1973/1974 that "Cyclists" were overly concerned with overall bike weight, even though SCHWINN made bullet-proof bicycles. Their Japanese offerings were made with Schwinn Approved quality and were better bicycles because they weighed significantly less and yet rode very well........oh and the Le Tour had better brakes and a better rear derailleur than the Varsity did too....
Figure out what you have BEFORE you Devalue it if it has any value. Might need to piece-meal it for its valued item. I hate suggesting to anyone to part out a bicycle, but if greater value exists there, you as the owner should know that and have that choice to do so or not.
 
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