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Need help with Featherstone crank

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jjcatqfi

'Lil Knee Scuffer
Hello,
Looking for an exploded view or someone with knowledge of how the crank disassembles on an 1898 Featherstone Road King. I have the left side nut loose but it feels like it's getting in a bind as I rotate it outward.

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Looks like binding should occur, unless one side (right?) of the crank is disconnected.
Is there any other access to disassemble the 2-3 piece crank, prior to removing it; (e.g., 4 screws?).
1) first remove crank;
2) then remove cups.
We see a left side cup, but not the left side nut that binds; (hex nut; square nut; male threads; female threads).

The 3 late-add pictures show some clues.

Because Westfield acquired Featherstone (ABC, et al), perhaps disassembly might be similar but different from early Westfield 2-3 piece cranks.

What might be the purpose of the previously hidden holes; (and why were they hidden?).
 
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There is no exposed nut to release the crank arm. There are (were) 2 bolts that clamped the bearing nuts in place and that allowed the left bering nut to be released. I can thred it in and out about 1/8 in in either direction before the bearings seem to "crush" and feel tight. (Last 2 photos.) I was wondering if the two screw access holes were to allow a rod or screw driver to be inserted and "lock " the crank some how?



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There was a thread here with that type of crank. In that hold there is a retainer that's push down and the crank will unsrew or separate. No idea where that tread was posted.
Maybe this one?
 
There was a thread here with that type of crank. In that hold there is a retainer that's push down and the crank will unsrew or separate. No idea where that tread was posted.
Maybe this one?
That is what I was expecting to find when taking off the left bearing race, but the Iverson has a bolt that connects the two halves. I don't have anything that seems to keep the two haves together.
 
Im going to wait afew days to see of any CABErs can come up with a solution. Im wondering if I took it to the maximum distance to the left (which draws the right side in and "binds it up") and gave it a couple of swift wacks with a 2lb hammer it might free up. 124 year old grease might make for a solid glue?
 
Get a good flashlight and look down those holes as you rotate the crank to see if there are any matching somethings. If you dig through period cycling magazines there is probably an articl on the new, improved Featherstone crank. Also, ask over at Thewheelmen.org. I think someone had a Featherstone there 5 or more years ago. Or maybe it was here?
 
Just an observation but the crank arms are not a perfect 180° apart. They look to be almost 7° off. Could one side thread into the other with the bearings completely independent of of the cranks?
 
I have to assume those two holes are there to insert a tool to catch/hold the crank coupling while you unscrew the crank arms.



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