new departure model d coaster brake overhaul

[scale]

I have seen alot of threads and place that show model d manuals calling for automotive grease on the bearings and oil on the steel/brass disks.

My hub im working on is all cleaned and ready to go back together.

Right now im thinking of using phil wood grease on the bearings. Will this suffice?

Also....my hub doesnt have a oiler hole on it which i thought is strange. Do i just soak each disc with a 30w oil and slide them on the shaft and call it done?

Do i need to oil or grease up the splines and teethed parts that fit together containing the spring mechanism? IF so...which? Oil or grease?

Thanks all. Id rather only have to do this once and i want to get it right the first time

 

[MrColumbia]

The rule of thumb has always been oil the clutch disks and grease everything else. The 30w on the discs has worked well for me. As for which grease you will get a million and one opinions on that subject and none of them are going to be absolutely wrong. Almost any bearing grease made today is far better than the stuff that was in there when it was new. I doubt you are racing a bike with this hub so a thicker grease that theoretically creates more drag will not even be noticed in normal cruiser riding. I haven't used Phil Wood grease myself but being a grease specifically formulated for bicycles you can't go wrong.

 

[scale]

Thanks. I got it back together with the PW grease. Seems to work much better now. That was the goal.

I dont have a oil nipple on this hub. I can see where it is supposed to go but it isnt there. Almost like someone filled in it.

Either way i oiled the disks really well on assembly so i should be good for a while.

Now on to regreasing the crank

im having a heck of a time removing the master link.

IM pretty sure i just need to bend the chain together and pop off the master link but it wont budge.
Id like to remove the chain, soak it and relube it. It is caked with old grease and in need of a good cleaning


are there any tricks with older master links? This one seem to be tight fit.

 

[Larmo63]

Just keep working it. Sometimes they can be really fussy. It does pop off.

WD-40 or similar?

 

[scale]

got it finally. Lots of prying and the like. I gotta say.....the sure dont make them this durable these days. wow.
The 2 master link shafts must be mushroomed a bit as they wouldnt push back through the side links after getting the flat piece off. I had to really work them to get one side through. Gave it a good soak and im working on greasing the BB bearings now.

 

[pkh1974]

I don't mess with master links. They are a pain. I just use the old chain tool to remove all my chains. Its just so much easier.

 

[scale]

I don't mess with master links. They are a pain. I just use the old chain tool to remove all my chains. Its just so much easier.

Trust me...i thought about that.

I didnt know if this old of chain worked in the same way so i didnt want to try pressing a pin out only to find that i had ruined it.

Good to know for the future though. Definately the quicker route. Ill bet i fiddled with that thing for about and hour

 

[gregv]

fwiw here's a link to a New Departure manual scanned and posted on flickr; I believe all the pages are there if you root around. At any rate this page calls out for automotive grease on the bearings and hypoid lubricant on the disc set:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/474965...mgt-cniJeY-aUwJ7v-c3eu97-5ZMhuY-7e4Lf3-de5JuV

Personally I've been using hi-temp severe duty automotive grease on the bearings and driver etc., and motor oil on the discs. Once it gets heated up through and through a few times it all blends a bit anyways.

Also I can never seem to find a happy middle ground between too much play at the rim and binding bearings. If I tighten it up to where there's a small amount of play at the rim, the bearings bind and feel over-tight. Nice hub though.

good luck

greg v.

 

[OldRider]

If you're goin g to use a chain tool to pop out a link on your skiptooth chain it won't fit. My friend and I modified our chain breaker by taking out the inner bracket in the breaker to make the skiptooth fit. Worked really well.

 

[Waterland]

Park tool makes a master link plier that works great for removing and installing master links, part number MLP1. I was getting frustrated using needlenose pliers and a screwdriver so I got the master link pliers, best bike tool I've ever used, it will make chain work so much easier to do.

As for grease, I just use regular white lithium grease, no need for heavy weight axle grease or automotive bearing grease, the parts aren't moving fast enough to generate high heat and friction, so a light weight grease like lithium is sufficient lubrication to keep everything from binding up.