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New Departure Model D overhaul

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mikey67

Finally riding a big boys bike
Hey all, I'm trying to get this DX going and it's equipped with the D hub. I've never had one before so please bear with me. I tore it down and cleaned it, really good, and greased it up. When I put it together and took it for a test ride it goes forward fine but when I spin the cranks back to apply brake it goes between a half to a full revolution before I feel the brakes engage. Then when I pedal forward the same thing before it starts to drive. Is it absolutely mandatory to have all of the rings/washer things. There is a bunch of them but one was broken when I first opened it up. How many are there supposed to be? Not looking forward to opening it back up! Thanks for your help guys!
 
Hey all, I'm trying to get this DX going and it's equipped with the D hub. I've never had one before so please bear with me. I tore it down and cleaned it, really good, and greased it up. When I put it together and took it for a test ride it goes forward fine but when I spin the cranks back to apply brake it goes between a half to a full revolution before I feel the brakes engage. Then when I pedal forward the same thing before it starts to drive. Is it absolutely mandatory to have all of the rings/washer things. There is a bunch of them but one was broken when I first opened it up. How many are there supposed to be? Not looking forward to opening it back up! Thanks for your help guys!
First of all you can not use grease on the brake discs only light oil. Grease only on the bearings and a few other parts. Secondly yes you need to have a total thickness of .75 inches of discs. I think they often have 11 round and 10 tabbed discs. I may be off on the numbers but you need a total of 3/4 or .75 inches. Not sure if these 2 things are the culprit but it seems likely. Someone mayt have more and better answers for you. Sorry sounds like you need to open it up again. Good luck
 
First of all you can not use grease on the brake discs only light oil. Grease only on the bearings and a few other parts. Secondly yes you need to have a total thickness of .75 inches of discs. I think they often have 11 round and 10 tabbed discs. I may be off on the numbers but you need a total of 3/4 or .75 inches. Not sure if these 2 things are the culprit but it seems likely. Someone mayt have more and better answers for you. Sorry sounds like you need to open it up again. Good luck
Where would I find those discs? I'm assuming those aren't made anymore? Thanks for your response.
 
@coasterbrakejunkie1969 's post nails it. DIsc pack thickness directly affects how far you have to pedal back. Cone adjustment also affects it, You want it as tight as you can have it without the bearings feeling funny. Number of discs varied over the years, as did the material they are made of. Steel/bronze is preferable to steel/steel in my opinion. 0.75 inch is the thickness of the pack. I have bought a few discs from @Gordon in the past. Sometimes whole NOS/NORS disc packs show up on ebay. Only put in 0.75 inch if the pack comes out of the box too thick. Oil only on the discs unless you like drag and need more exercise LOL. You can grease the bearings if you want. I usually do.
 
Everything already said and make sure your transfer spring (D-12) has the little notch that sticks up to engage the brake clutch (D-6).

1487333


Pricey but original:


I usually just buy spare hubs for the parts if cheap enough.
 
If you don't have the tool, line the disc tabs up carefully on at least 2 sides, and with the guts in one hand, axle sticking straight up in the air, lower the wheel over it with the other hand rocking the wheel ever so slightly. If it doesn't go together pretty easy, re-line-up the discs and try again. It might take 2 or 3 tries if you haven't done it much. It's pretty easy once you get the hang of it. You should be able to feel the bearings contact when it is all the way on.

Of course it's better to have the tool if you can buy or make one.
 
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