New Find on Craigslist

[J-wagon]

And here
Thread 'Serviceability of Spaceliner 2 speed kickback?' https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/serviceability-of-spaceliner-2-speed-kickback.204007/

 

[JimmyTheDog]

Recent threads kickback service here:

Thread 'Service help needed for my Spaceliner I'm at my whits end!!' https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/service-help-needed-for-my-spaceliner-im-at-my-whits-end.204631/

Thread 'Service help needed for my Spaceliner I'm at my whits end!!' https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/service-help-needed-for-my-spaceliner-im-at-my-whits-end.204631/

Thanks @coasterbrakejunkie1969 and @J-wagon for the advice and links. Slow and steady, do it over a bin to catch pieces, take lots of pictures, and learn something new! If I'm taking all of the guts out I'm going to give the wheels/stem/handlebars/front rack/cranks an oxalic bath for a day or so. That's a new adventure for me too. I hear the oxalic bath is better when above 70 degrees. It all might have to wait a while- cold and snow in CO. But I got her riding!!!!!!
And...she got her Rogue reflector today from David ( @Boris )- looks great- thank you!

 

[Nashman]

Personally, if you are reluctant to open up that hub because it works ( I haven't worked on a Bendix 2 speed but have on several coaster brake hubs) but feels gunked up, you could just loosen the cones on the axle/both sides to clean and lube. Make sure the threads are clean and everything spins easy or it will get nasty. This will require the wheel removed.

Do one side at a time so you can control ball bearings/parts to NOT fall out if loose. Clean all around it with paint thinner or varsol, or brake cleaner 1st so more crap doesn't get in the hub. Work on a cookie tray or pan just in case. Have good lighting.

Wear latex gloves if you don't wanna get greasy, and do in a well ventilated area unless you wanna get buzzed on solvent or blow up your house/garage. I used to paint and clean parts in my basement. We had a gas furnace and hot water tank ( pilot lights). I'm amazed I didn't blow up the house. Not purposely...but I did get a small solvent buzz, and that perhaps explains many things in my life moving forward...ha!!

You will get some seepage of that solvent ( a good thing) into the hub while you clean that will loosen things up. If you have a compressor it helps to blow the gunk on the parts out, or wipe old excess grease with a clean rag. You can even let a bit of solvent in the hub (a bit) to loosen hardened grease. You can add some new light grease, or heavy oil like Phils along the inside edge of the hub/bearings/balls before you ( lightly snug) tighten the cones up again.

Take it for another "rip" and test the brakes before you get up too much speed. Kick it/test speeds. If it works better, you've saved yourself some grief. Eventually it should loosen up further once all the lube warms up and spreads it's love. Some call this a lazy lube. Better than looking at a hub in parts you can't figure out. Or the alternative is to break it down, clean it perfect, and re-assemble using directions passed on by other Cabers. I've performed both the lazy and complete. Cheers!

 

[Rusty Klunker]

They're not that hard Nash and JTD but a little different then a single speed. You could take the brake arm and dust cover off and get some grease on that bearing but really the adjustments are made from the sprocket side. There is also 4 sets of bearings in these plus you should check the brake disc pack.

What you don't want is a hub shell that looks like this. Have had a few people bring me hubs like this. Nothing I can do for them.

 

[J-wagon]

What you don't want is a hub shell that looks like this.

What happen to that hub shell

 

[Rusty Klunker]

I'd say lack of lubrication, or a bike that was brought out of a long storage where the grease had dried and just started riding it. I have a couple that look like that.

 

[J-wagon]

Wow. High heat cracks around race ring. I guess generated from prolonged downhills or motorized speeds.

 

[Rusty Klunker]

Unless you were a nut like us, how many of these things do you think were actually serviced? 50's - 60's bikes were in there hay day but I wonder what the percentage was that came back for service.

 

[razinhellcustomz]

Alright, I had some time in the shop with the bike up. I took the cranks off and cleaned/repacked the rings in the bottom bracket, scrubbed and lubed the chain, installed a replacement Messinger saddle, added black Schwinn grips, turned the front fender around (that cracked me up!!), and threw on new S-7 26 x 1 3/4 whitewalls (the old tubes still held air- bonus!). I got her rolling up and down my alley and the Bendix 2-speed kickback works! I was switching back and forth between gears and making skid marks with the brake. I still have big rust to remove on the rims, a rusty stem/handlebars, clean/pack the steering tube- and BicycleBones Tiger decals to top her off.
Here's my question: I'm planning on repacking the front hub tomorrow. How do you clean/repack the ball bearings in the rear Bendix Kickback hub? I am hesitant to crack it open and screw it up. Like I said earlier, it works, so now I am not planning to overhaul it, I simply want to make the rear tire spin smoother. It feels gunked up.
Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions. I totally appreciate any insight. JTD

RINGS in the bottom bracket? What about the bearings? As for the 2 speed kickers, loosen up the bearings and squirt some WD-40 and that should free them up a little..

 

[JimmyTheDog]

I ran across this 1959 Schwinn on Craigslist here in Colorado for $20. It's a 09/09/59 production, but I have no clue on the model. Looking at the 1959 Schwinn catalog it seems like a Tiger or Speedster. Unfortunately there are no screens on the bike or guard. The front rack gives me a slight clue, and the Speedster looks similar but has no front rack. Both were offered in black- but it looks like whoever had it did some rogue spray painting. I won't know the real color until I take the forks off to clean and grease the head tube. However, the paint around the serial number is good and the numbers are clear and not gobbed up like a re-paint. The kickstand has a small blast of black paint.

I don't know, seems like a pretty good project- lots of rust. The Bendix coaster needs to be disassembled and cleaned for sure- I've only done one before.
If anyone has the model pegged, I'd love to know. I might get some water decals to finish her off. Thanks for your knowledge in advance. JTD

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I ran across this 1959 Schwinn on Craigslist here in Colorado for $20. It's a 09/09/59 production, but I have no clue on the model. Looking at the 1959 Schwinn catalog it seems like a Tiger or Speedster. Unfortunately there are no screens on the bike or guard. The front rack gives me a slight clue, and the Speedster looks similar but has no front rack. Both were offered in black- but it looks like whoever had it did some rogue spray painting. I won't know the real color until I take the forks off to clean and grease the head tube. However, the paint around the serial number is good and the numbers are clear and not gobbed up like a re-paint. The kickstand has a small blast of black paint.

I don't know, seems like a pretty good project- lots of rust. The Bendix coaster needs to be disassembled and cleaned for sure- I've only done one before.
If anyone has the model pegged, I'd love to know. I might get some water decals to finish her off. Thanks for your knowledge in advance. JTD

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Found a seat, handlebars, grips, repop light, and a rear rack. A lot of elbow grease for rust (still more to go). Just applied some Schwinn Tiger decals- thanks @bicyclebones
I still need to crack open the Bendix Kickback hub. It works for now, so I’m up and riding. Thanks for all the help identifying and service knowledge from all. Time for a SSS!