new to me 20s rollfast info needed..

[Flathead31Coupe]

i just checked some old ads and yours is correct min is backwards....

 

[redline1968]

Thanks...it is clean....Not sure late 20’s. I think

 

[SKPC]

Archie Sturmer may be correct with his year....If this is a Snyder built frame and fork, the seatpost collet, or tightener would say 36/37..maybe 37. And, no one can tell you which direction to point your seatpost clamp bar. There is no correct direction to point it and it would be up the person riding the bike.

 

[redline1968]

:0

 

[Flathead31Coupe]

Archie Sturmer may be correct with his year....If this is a Snyder built frame and fork, the seatpost collet, or tightener would say 36/37..maybe 37. And, no one can tell you which direction to point your seatpost clamp bar. There is no correct direction to point it and it would be up the person riding the bike.

thanks, i understand that....when mine was turned to the rear if you were a heaveier person the seat springs would hit the rear rack....with it turned the way the sale ads show them,and the way t turned mine...the seat springs are free to move as much as needed,,,,

 

[Archie Sturmer]

Seat position and geometry has trade-offs depending on riding style. Generally the rake angle of the seat post mast at ~70 degrees is intended to accommodate various rider heights or leg lengths; (the seat moves back some as it moves up to accommodate longer thighs).
Moving the seat backwards may allow greater leg extension during the pedaling stroke, without moving the seat higher. Moving the seat higher makes it harder for riders feet to reach the ground (might be a factor). I have found that moving the seat backwards, on incline hills, without using a low gear, tends to push the rider backwards off the seat.

There are several styles of bent or leaning seat posts, most common acute ~70 degrees (looks like a "7"); obtuse ~110 degrees; combination (looks like a "tee"); 90 degree right angle posts; and various BMX bends. I believe that the 70-degee posts should point forward, and if I want a rear leaning post then I should opt for a 110-degree version (which are harder to find). With streamlining, where the top tube aligns to the seat stays, the 90-degree right angle post looks best.
If the long-spring seat hits the rear rack, then that may be a sign of wrong seat post or orientation used.

 

[Flathead31Coupe]

thanks for the info....i had no idea

 

[SKPC]

Yea, if the springs hit the rack, raise the seatpost or perhaps move the saddle forward in the clamp. Most people do not run the post high enough to begin with! AS is correct, but what I was trying to say in my above post was that these early bikes do not fit tall people generally. If I run the lucky sevens pointing forward, I myself get jammed up too tight in the cockpit. I run them pointing backwards because I am tall and need to do so in order to fit the bicycle properly. If you run it facing forwards, you have less room to adjust your seat back to the center of the seat pillar(zero offset) and beyond. If a seat has no fore or aft rail clamp position settings, it makes it worse. Fortunately yours does. I believe that lucky sevens like the one one on your ride were designed for small framed people. If you want to run it facing backwards, the bike will still roll and operate just fine. If you are shorter, then forward facing..

 

[Flathead31Coupe]

thanks.....

 

[Flathead31Coupe]

Generally looks like a 1930’s motorbike; the collet type seat post clamp may indicate 1936.
The McCauley #1001 tall tank (toolbox) also middle 30’s.
Chrome fenders may have appeared about that time; (Rollfast may have had the first chromium bicycle in the world).

Does it have an alpha numeric serial number on the bottom bracket?

what about the wood clad wheels? would thay be mid 30s as well....i have looked at a lot of different years and models. seems the mid 30s are all different...