Newbie and my first project...Raleigh Sports 3 speed

[kbuidc]

Hi All.

I've been browsing the forums enjoying everyone's projects and got the bug myself. My apologies if this topic is in the wrong section or if I make a mistake.

I found an old Raleigh Sports 3 speed and plan on cleaning it up and getting it back out on the road. While I plan on keeping the paint in the condition I found it (with the exception of the small amounts of rust), the chrome is going to get polished back to as close to original...or as much as my arms can take.

The bike seems in decent condition. It has a layer of old oil, grime, dirt, and some surface rust. The back hub was covered in dirt and oil...a quick wipe down showed bright chrome underneath and a production year of 1954. It also comes with a child seat on the back. Kids back then were a lot tougher...minimal padding and no suspension on this ride.

I disassembled half of the bike today. But in the process of removing the chain casing, I realized I needed to first remove the right crank. What I didn't realize was the nervousness I got when I found out it was a cotter pin that needs to be hammered out to remove the crank. Yes, I've read Sheldon Brown's website on how to do this, but it isn't making it any easier to start hammering on a 60 year-old bike.

So for now, I've stopped on that part so I can weigh options (hammer it out myself and/or take it to a local bike shop).

I've posted a few pictures here, but the others are on the following link (26 total

http://khue-bui.photoshelter.com/gallery/Raleigh-Sports-3-Speed/G00002CYUEZ2oi4Y

 

[edwinejimmy]

The main issue...

Hi All.

I've been browsing the forums enjoying everyone's projects and got the bug myself. My apologies if this topic is in the wrong section or if I make a mistake.

I found an old Raleigh Sports 3 speed and plan on cleaning it up and getting it back out on the road. While I plan on keeping the paint in the condition I found it (with the exception of the small amounts of rust), the chrome is going to get polished back to as close to original...or as much as my arms can take.

The bike seems in decent condition. It has a layer of old oil, grime, dirt, and some surface rust. The back hub was covered in dirt and oil...a quick wipe down showed bright chrome underneath and a production year of 1954. It also comes with a child seat on the back. Kids back then were a lot tougher...minimal padding and no suspension on this ride.

I disassembled half of the bike today. But in the process of removing the chain casing, I realized I needed to first remove the right crank. What I didn't realize was the nervousness I got when I found out it was a cotter pin that needs to be hammered out to remove the crank. Yes, I've read Sheldon Brown's website on how to do this, but it isn't making it any easier to start hammering on a 60 year-old bike.

So for now, I've stopped on that part so I can weigh options (hammer it out myself and/or take it to a local bike shop).

I've posted a few pictures here, but the others are on the following link (26 total

http://khue-bui.photoshelter.com/gallery/Raleigh-Sports-3-Speed/G00002CYUEZ2oi4Y

The main issue with the bi-cycle is that the rod in front of the seat it is not possible for every sit and adjust it accordingly but it is a great antique piece and this model is very famous in olden days most commonly used by men's...

 

[greenephantom]

The Raleighs are neat bikes, but they are a bit more difficult to work on and require some special tools.

If the face of the cotter pin is still good, you'll want to re-use the pin, and if you hammer it all up you'll ruin the threads. The modern cotter pins pretty much such and they are somewhat undersized. Also: do note the orientation of the cotter pin on each side, and re-install the same way. Take pictures.

There is a special tool for removing cotter pins, typically called a cotter pin press, Park used to make on, and somewhat recently on eBay someone else was selling a new small design cotter pin press. A cotter pin press is used for both removing and re-installing the cotter pins. The best way to remove the pin is to first oil it up and let it sit overnight, then unscrew the nut so it's even with the end of the pin, then use a proper press to get the pin loosen, then remove the nut and pin. Check the face of the cotter pin for damage, re-use if possible. Have a shop do this work instead of hammering. Few mechanics know how to use these tools, so pick your shop carefully.

If you haven't pulled the fork yet, do note that it uses loose balls, so position bike in workstand so headset is parallel with ground, or else they'll all fall out, which is super hilarious.

Cheers, Geoff

 

[greenephantom]

Just poked around eBay for cotter pin tools. No bicycle cotter pin tools.

Cheers, Geoff

 

[danny7147]

Interesting about the cotter tool... Sounds like just a properly made version of what I use. I get the other crank (or a spare one, or anything with a hole!) and put it over the end of the cotter. Tighten a G clamp around it, a couple of turns and crack, it comes out. Usually. After that, blowtorch. After that, angle grinder

 

[Wayne Adam]

Welcome KBUIDC

Welcome,
You have a nice bike there. I myself am an avid collector of vintage Raleigh Bikes. I currently have twelve of them. The cranks & forks are
murder to remove, and in most cases the ball bearings are loose, not encased. I also notice that you have the front Dyno Hub, but the lights are missing.
This internal hub generator is great. I have 9 Raleigh Sports, and 3 Raleigh Superbs, two with the front Dyno, and my 1952 has the rear Dyno.
Anyway, I could go on and on but I won't.
Good luck with your bike!..............................Wayne

 

[greenephantom]

Danny, that's a clever work-around. And lots easier than finding the real tool. Spare cottered arm and a C clamp, brilliant!

Cheers, Geoff

 

[silvercreek]

I've got a Raleigh 3 peed in the works also. It's at a stand still right now while I save some money for getting it re-finished.

 

[kbuidc]

Hi All,

Sorry for the slow response. I spent the whole weekend slowly cleaning the individual parts. Wifey is VERY tolerant of the small wreckage of tools and parts all over the house.

Currently, I am cleaning the handle bars. I cleaned the rust off the outside of the bars using vinegar and crumpled aluminum foil. For the inside (light rust internally), I placed a cork in one end and filled the bar up with vinegar and then plugged the other end. There is a little rust on the painted frame. I'm hesitant to do anything too much as I don't want to strip off the original paint, but also do not want the rust to progress any further. I hope to be able to keep the original paint. Just using a little WD-40 to clean off the heavy grime and that has already made a tremendous difference.

Are there any rust treatments for paint that will not turn the rust a new color and not damage the paint?

I'm going very slowly on the project as I don't want to screw anything up. I was able to remove one of the cotter pins, but damaged the threads a little. After that fiasco, I stopped by the LBS and they said to bring it in and they would remove the fork.

Thanks again for EVERYONE's input...back to cleaning.

I'll post updates and photos as I move along.

Cheers,

Khue

 

[danny7147]

Danny, that's a clever work-around. And lots easier than finding the real tool. Spare cottered arm and a C clamp, brilliant!

Cheers, Geoff

I just got fed up of using a hammer... it works 99% of the time, but of course you always get the odd one that's just way too rusted in to come out!