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The grease always seems to take a while to get that smooth ride at least that is what I'm experienceing with the park grease.

And I put enough air to the point where it is a hard bump bone shattering feel and then back it off till I feel no more bumpy ride.
The middleweights seem to be more of a rigid ride to me than the ballooners bu,t the padding I have on my backend isn't what it used to be....just saying....I know TMI

That's so much TMI that I'm gonna hafta sleep with the lights on tonight!
 
Update: Forgot to mention that I never did find the MO number. I checked the dropout with the rear wheel removed and thoroughly cleaned the area, even used an illuminated magnifying glass. NADA. Seems they didn't stamp it. Has anyone seen (or not seen) this before?

Ran into a buddy who may be able to get me free chrome plating, whoo hoo! That reminds me of the New York State Trooper motto: "If it's free it's for me!"
 
I would ask Phil about the MO stamping. He would know.
I read that there should be a MO stamped prefix but, then Ive seen serial numbers listed here without too. I just assumed they dodnt give us the prefix.
502 prefix imdicates a sears. Cant help you on the rest. Phil knows.

Brayne cells do grow back but, i havent grown any yet. Dang 70's is where I killed mine. But It was fun killing em....lol
I brighter than some but, dumber than most.
 
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...Stands for Murray Ohio Manufacturing.Cool bike,I always wanted one

He says he doesn't have the MO prefix on his serial number.
Are some of the 502 serial numbers just not have a MO stamped prefix?
I am aware the MO reference but there should be a letter or number suffix to the stamp to indicate the year, I always thought.

If there is no MO stamping then what determines the year?
 
He says he doesn't have the MO prefix on his serial number.
Are some of the 502 serial numbers just not have a MO stamped prefix?
I am aware the MO reference but there should be a letter or number suffix to the stamp to indicate the year, I always thought.

If there is no MO stamping then what determines the year?

I'm not a pro when it comes to Murray serial numbers but I dont think they provide any DECIPHERABLE info on year. Someone may have researched this and the info might be available but I dont believe so. I think you need to compare the bike to dated catalogs for any positive ID. Some members have compiled a ton of literature and made a data base between dated ads with pics and known bikes with their serial numbers. This sounds like a good project for you with the different Spaceliners.
 
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Not a pro either. OJT

I'm not an expert either. I thought I knew all there was to know about the Murray Serial number project and used it religiously. Then someone said it was not written in gold. So I still have reservations going by it. But it reads here as Sears and Gambles did not use the MO prefix. So maybe your right on comparing to the catalog is the only way to narrow the year.
So when in doubt I ask the gurus here on the Cabe. The Date book I got from ABC doesn't cover the newer years, which he has.
Here is the link that I was using in the past:

http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/archive/index.php/t-7014.html

I don't know how far back this goes , but I know that Murray used a single letter to represent the year since at least 1949. Most of these bikes up until the early 60's had the serial number stamped on the bottom of the bottom bracket. I have seen the letters MOS stamped on most of these. I ASSUME that they stand for Murray of Ohio Supply. This is usually followed by a - and a single letter. That letter will be the year code. After the year code will be a 2 or 3 digit number that stands for the model number. This excludes bikes built for Sears and Gambles(Hiawatha). Sears bikes had a 502 and Gambles bikes had a WG or a WG and a single digit. Sears bikes then had a 2 - 5 digit number afterwards that stood as the model number and was actually used in there catalogs as the part number. Gambles Hiawathas were the same way.

F = 49
G = 50
H = 51
I = 52
J = 53
K = 54
L = 55
M = 56
N = 57
P = 58
R = 59
S = 60
T = 61
U = 62
W = 63
X = 64
Y = 65

In 65 they were changing there serial number style and by then they were on the left rear dropout. Some 65 bikes had an MO5 which stood for Murray of Ohio 1965. After these 3 digits was a 2 or 3 digit model number followed by and X and a 1 or 2 digit number that I will discuss momentarily.
MO5 = 65
MO6 = 66
MO7 = 67
MO8 = 68
In 69, they changed the layout yet again. They dropped the O. They also went to a 4 digit model number.
M9 = 69
M0 = 70
and so on.
This is what I have so far on the X numbers. We need to add to the list as more show up. Ron and I were talking about these numbers recently. We figure that a customer had to order a minimum number of bikes per order to have there own X number. If they didn't order a minimum number of bikes, they possibly shared an X number with a Murray badged bike. Kenny.
X6 or X6? = Otasco
X7 = BF Goodrich
X10 = Westernflyer (Western Auto)
X12 = All Pro (Kmart)
X13 = Murray
X18 = Hiawatha (Gambles)
X25 = Foremost (JC Penneys)
X28 = ?
X43 = Murray
X55 = Murray
X67 = Sportscrest
X69 = Special for 1969 (in 69 only, could have been used other years as a different meaning)
X70 = Special for 1970 (in 70 only, could have been used other years as a different meaning)
X71 = Sportscrest (?) Also Special for 1971 (in 71 only,could have been used other years as different meaning)
X81 = Murray
X82 = Murray
X83 = Might actually be a Sears number??????
X84 = Murray
 
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I had No Idea.....

......The years had been deciphered,cool! I wonder if this stuff was available when I still had my ColorFlow and girls JetFlow? I relied on a book I bought back in the mid 90's to ID them.I sold the C/F to a member here,maybe he's reading and can nail down the year.The J/F went to an older gentleman near me and I lost his number.Thanks for posting.
 
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ABC's Date Book

I know you got one of these?
This date Book covers some manufacturers (AMF-CWC, Huffman, Monark, Murray,and Westfied) and years ranging from 37-58".
It has been a big help. Some information that may not be needed but some great info on serial numbers, stamped serial number locations, part breakdowns w/ pictures...a good reference for a newbie like myself...and for $20, Brian has done a great job supplying it.

http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showth...re-bicycle-reprinted-book&highlight=date+book
 
Dont Have One.....

...I pretty much stick with Schwinn these days and their s/n info is everywhere. I've used the info so much over the years that I know most of the late 50's-90's stuff without looking it up. I'll keep this book in mind,I like like reference literature and maybe I'll buy one.I think Oldroads.com and Nostalgic.net have excellent serial number charts for most makers.
 
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