Oxalic acid bath before and afters

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joel.romeo.79

Finally riding a big boys bike
Aug 19, 2014
222
Garland, United States
www.facebook.com
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When I accidentally post a photo of some progress on someone else's old Monark and my phone blows up while I am working because everyone he knows is suddenly trying to buy it before I put the rest of the parts I have for it on there to make it a complete rideable rust arrested bike. Any way i forgot to pull the headbadge on Kate Bluegrass Hardware and of course it turned pink. Any advice on what to put it in to take that garbage back off and leave the paint would be worth a lot to me. I am kind of pissed at a handful of asshats right now for all the distractions. You may save a life or two.


It wasn't me I swear.
 

joel.romeo.79

Finally riding a big boys bike
Aug 19, 2014
222
Garland, United States
www.facebook.com
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I am getting really good with this. I found a few hundred pages of bibliography and data charts on the use of organic acids. 2.5 ph and 150 degrees Fahrenheit works best from what i have read. Uv radiation accelerates the process as well

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
 
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bricycle

I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
Nov 18, 2009
23,482
Chicago area west
I have tried it as a last resort on severely rusted items that you need to get apart... works well, but takes weeks, not hours like Oxalic acid.
also turns metal black.
 

SirMike1983

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Jun 27, 2008
3,225
Inactive
When you look at each of these items, the common thread emerges- namely that you need a solid foundation of existing paint to get the sorts of results in the pictures. I love oxalic acid for large number of uses, but people should not get misled by the pictures- not everyone is going to get these same, good results. If your underlying paint is compromised by too much rust, you will see much more bare metal and paint loss. Use the oxalic acid with caution and check the part often when you're getting started.
 

bricycle

I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
Nov 18, 2009
23,482
Chicago area west
When you look at each of these items, the common thread emerges- namely that you need a solid foundation of existing paint to get the sorts of results in the pictures. I love oxalic acid for large number of uses, but people should not get misled by the pictures- not everyone is going to get these same, good results. If your underlying paint is compromised by too much rust, you will see much more bare metal and paint loss. Use the oxalic acid with caution and check the part often when you're getting started.
plus, not recommended on red paint I've heard.
 

the tinker

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
May 4, 2014
2,880
Planet Mongo

Shawn Michael

Wore out three sets of tires already!
Oct 3, 2012
754
Keizer, OR
What needs to be done after an o.a. bath? Do you just rinse everything well or is a dressing needed afterwards like an oil or wax or clear finish? Thanks, Shawn
 

the tinker

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
May 4, 2014
2,880
Planet Mongo
What needs to be done after an o.a. bath? Do you just rinse everything well or is a dressing needed afterwards like an oil or wax or clear finish? Thanks, Shawn
Very good question. I am sure we will get several answers. As I get side tracked easily when I read the word"dressing" I immediately thought of the stovetop dressing we ate the other night. Sure was good . Can't wait until Thanks Giving. .....Getting back to your question it would depend on just how rusty and how much original finish is left after the OX bath. On the rims I did the other day I just scrubbed them down with a wet rag [only water] afterwards there still was a residue on them and some road tar and what looked like some black spray paint over spray. I lightly rubbed them down with mineral oil and then used Macquire's paste cleaner wax and they look great. There are some areas that have no paint on them as the rust was so deep the paint is long gone. Just don't rub too hard ,especially on striping.:)
That worked for me, now lets hear from the other folks......
 

Rivnut

I live for the CABE
Nov 24, 2012
1,461
Shawnee, United States
I had a 55 gallon plastic barrel with 18 gallons of water and two gallons of molasses in it. I dipped lots of parts off my '64 Riviera in it. It worked really well but as mentioned, it took a while. I was in no rush. One thing I did find out is that you DO NOT want to use it on die cast or aluminum. "Where did the threads on my seat gears go? " AGGHHHHH!!!!.

The molasses needs to be hosed off immediately with a power washer or some other high pressure water then spritzed with some metal prep. All of the steel parts that I dipped now look like raw steel; they're not black and they haven't succumb to any surface rust.

Ed
 
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