Penetrating oils.

[Gearhead Kevin]

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You sure did a nice job on that bike.

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

A lot of great info. on this thread. This is by far the most difficult thing that I ever had to take apart. The handlebar stem rusted into the front fork. Unable to heat it up properly because of the frame. Months of soaking in PB & ATF/ Acetone. Used a couple of sacrificial bolts, washers, & a hammer drill on the stem bolt hole. After a couple of weeks of periodic hammering, almost gave up until I started to see a couple of little bubbles coming out of the joint. Patience payed off.

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Very nice job on the Truck! Good job saving that fork and stem.

For others just starting out on a rust project, don't forget to remove the front fender and get some of your oil into the "fender bolt hole" and on the bottom of the handlebar stem. I use a soft brass hammer and keep taping the stem and fork to break up the rust, and work the oil in. It's all about patience.

John

 

[schwinnderella]

I'm a Kroil guy too, did auto repair for 25 years, so we had lots of chances to test various brands.

 

[loon36u]

I’ve used this mix for years.
It works great
As Rivnut pointed out- I use a cheap oil pump squirt can.
A quart of this in a sealed container lasts forever.
I’m amazed at the skeptics.
Over thinking makes you unhappy

 

[Monarkman]

I had a stuck stem on my 65’ Typhoon, applied Kroil every morning and night for 3 weeks, also used heat the best I could. Problem was, the stem was broken off, so I was afraid to put too much heat on head tube or fork and possibly damage any brazing.

Nothing worked.

I actually ended up using a drill bit slightly smaller diameter than the OD of the stem and drill it out. What was left was a thin layer of stem material , like a shim, that I was able to chisel off the inside of fork tube.

I am curious if this oil/acetone mixture would have really worked .

 

[borgward]

I know that this has previously had much discussion. I’ve expressed my own results but I’ve now found sone documented proof that I’ve been doing the right thing all along - saving a ton of moolah $$$$ and getting the best results.
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Question: how many of you will try this and how many will continue to use what you’ve been using? 😎

I use LPS-1 when everything else fails. Expensive. $16 over five years ago. Meets Mil specs. Had to order from Granger.

 

[Houndsworth]

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[Houndsworth]

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Victor Wrench wins.

 

[loon36u]

I’ve also used LPS-1 exclusively when working on aircraft -as borgward pointed out that it meets MIL specs.

 

[toco]

I know that this has previously had much discussion. I’ve expressed my own results but I’ve now found sone documented proof that I’ve been doing the right thing all along - saving a ton of moolah $$$$ and getting the best results.
View attachment 1810847
Question: how many of you will try this and how many will continue to use what you’ve been using? 😎

I was an automobile mechanic in the rust belt for 50+years. Haven’t tried the acetone. But agree with rest. Kroil is head and shoulders better than the rest. Worked with a guy years ago that swore by Diesel oil and gasoline and seemed to work, but he cleaned parts with carbon-tet too. Flame is great but often destructive and ir-reversible. More torque is never the answer, unless its from the buzz of an air chisel. The mini-ductor is the ultimate but enormously expensive. This is based on tens of thousands of frozen fastners.