Penetrating oils.

[Rivnut]

$20+ for a gallon of acetone and another $20 for a gallon of ATF is still less than $110 for a gallon of Kroil. And for your $40 you have two gallons instead of one. Pretty simple math. Granted, it’s more than it used to be, but what isn’?

 

[schwinnbikebobb]

Seems like the acetone might damage paint. Has that happened?

 

[catfish]

I usually spray all the nuts and bolts on a bike and let it sit for a week before I even think about taking it apart.

 

[Gearhead Kevin]

I did the acetone/ATF deal for a while. This went around the old car world (HAMB) and antique tractor scene some year ago and was a hot topic of discussion. I guess I didn't have the ideal storage method because the acetone evaporation aspect was annoying. I will say that Kroil is fantastic though. I get it from Zoro with a coupon and it's not very expensive no more than a bicycle hobbyist uses. The little Kroil oiler cans last a long time.

 

[SirMike1983]

The chart originated, if I recall, with Machinist's Workshop Magazine quite a number of years ago. Other tests have been done since then, and the results vary.

(For example -

).
[Spoiler - the Liquid Wrench won, followed by the Acetone-ATF combination, but heat did better than both].

Different products do well in different circumstances. Each test is a little different. But there seem to be a few recurring lessons:

• Any product within a mile of correct for the task is better than nothing.
• When you can apply it, heat helps if it's a steel-steel joint.
• The Acetone-ATF thing is not a myth, it actually does help if the circumstances are correct.
• Liquid Wrench and Kroil cycle in and out of favor, depending on the test, but again, it's better than doing nothing.
• WD-40 tends to work better as a preventative than a penetrating oil, but is still better than nothing.
• The smell of PB Blaster comes up as a complaint occasionally.

I would use Kroil or Liquid Wrench over ATF/Acetone where you are dealing with a painted area, where you are applying any more than minimal heat, and if you are doing a longer term soak. Acetone/ATF is great if you don't have to deal with paint, can't apply heat, and want to go straight at it.

My go-to, if given the choice, is heat and Kroil or heat and Liquid Wrench. I apply the oil, heat gradually until it starts to bubble in the joint, then apply a little more oil and let cool. But I've also used ATF/Acetone and it works nicely when the circumstances are right.

 

[schwinnbikebobb]

I think I mentioned this before but I mostly use Kroil. When they got bought a few years back prices went up dramatically. Luckily I had stockpiled. But anyway I usually give whatever I'm trying to get loose a little tap with a hammer or whatever to set up a little vibration after I spray it. I'm with the Catfish, I usually spray everything for a week or even longer before I even try and take it apart.

 

[RichH]

Acetone/ATF is sold as Gibbs penetrating oil .I have unstuck lots of frozen parts over the yrs .you can get it on ebay

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

Acetone/ATF is sold as Gibbs penetrating oil .I have unstuck another of frozen parts over the yrs .you can get it on ebay

Gibb's Oil is great stuff, I used it on my "bare steel" 32 Roadster to keep it from rusting while I drove it.

It is nothing like 50% Acetone, 50% ATF oil.

John

 

[Thee]

Seems like the acetone might damage paint. Has that happened?

Indeed ! it does !

 

[mike j]

A lot of great info. on this thread. This is by far the most difficult thing that I ever had to take apart. The handlebar stem rusted into the front fork. Unable to heat it up properly because of the frame. Months of soaking in PB & ATF/ Acetone. Used a couple of sacrificial bolts, washers, & a hammer drill on the stem bolt hole. After a couple of weeks of periodic hammering, almost gave up until I started to see a couple of little bubbles coming out of the joint. Patience payed off.