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Penetrating oils.

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A lot of great info. on this thread. This is by far the most difficult thing that I ever had to take apart. The handlebar stem rusted into the front fork. Unable to heat it up properly because of the frame. Months of soaking in PB & ATF/ Acetone. Used a couple of sacrificial bolts, washers, & a hammer drill on the stem bolt hole. After a couple of weeks of periodic hammering, almost gave up until I started to see a couple of little bubbles coming out of the joint. Patience payed off.

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Very nice job on the Truck! Good job saving that fork and stem.

For others just starting out on a rust project, don't forget to remove the front fender and get some of your oil into the "fender bolt hole" and on the bottom of the handlebar stem. I use a soft brass hammer and keep taping the stem and fork to break up the rust, and work the oil in. It's all about patience.

John
 
I’ve used this mix for years.
It works great
As Rivnut pointed out- I use a cheap oil pump squirt can.
A quart of this in a sealed container lasts forever.
I’m amazed at the skeptics.
Over thinking makes you unhappy
 
I had a stuck stem on my 65’ Typhoon, applied Kroil every morning and night for 3 weeks, also used heat the best I could. Problem was, the stem was broken off, so I was afraid to put too much heat on head tube or fork and possibly damage any brazing.

Nothing worked.

I actually ended up using a drill bit slightly smaller diameter than the OD of the stem and drill it out. What was left was a thin layer of stem material , like a shim, that I was able to chisel off the inside of fork tube.

I am curious if this oil/acetone mixture would have really worked .
 
I know that this has previously had much discussion. I’ve expressed my own results but I’ve now found sone documented proof that I’ve been doing the right thing all along - saving a ton of moolah $$$$ and getting the best results.
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Question: how many of you will try this and how many will continue to use what you’ve been using? 😎
I use LPS-1 when everything else fails. Expensive. $16 over five years ago. Meets Mil specs. Had to order from Granger.
 
I’ve also used LPS-1 exclusively when working on aircraft -as borgward pointed out that it meets MIL specs.
 
I know that this has previously had much discussion. I’ve expressed my own results but I’ve now found sone documented proof that I’ve been doing the right thing all along - saving a ton of moolah $$$$ and getting the best results.
View attachment 1810847
Question: how many of you will try this and how many will continue to use what you’ve been using? 😎
I was an automobile mechanic in the rust belt for 50+years. Haven’t tried the acetone. But agree with rest. Kroil is head and shoulders better than the rest. Worked with a guy years ago that swore by Diesel oil and gasoline and seemed to work, but he cleaned parts with carbon-tet too. Flame is great but often destructive and ir-reversible. More torque is never the answer, unless its from the buzz of an air chisel. The mini-ductor is the ultimate but enormously expensive. This is based on tens of thousands of frozen fastners.
 
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