Hi, all, attempting my first ever rebuild of a coaster brake hub. Challenging! Had to chase the axle threads cuz they were buggered. It is a Perry B-100. It came disassembled in a coffee can, with a 1960-ish Rollfast i picked up. The bearing cages were cracked, and couldnt match them at LBS, so i replaced bearings sans cages. Not sure if that is advisable or not? Anyhow, i have it 90% back together, but the non-drive side dust cap is loose (has play). RJ the bike guy has a great video on this, but his brake arm has a square hole and fits over the brake cone square end, holding the dust cap tight. My brake arm has a small round hole and does not touch the dust cap at all. Thought about a large washer as a spacer, but then would not be able to hold the brake cone square end to tighten things up. What is the interface supposed to be between the brake cone square end and a small round hole brake arm? And what is supposed to hold the dust cap tight in this configuration? Thanks for any help!
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Perry B-100 help, please...
- Thread starter Wildralph
- Start date
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There are cone nuts. Unclear if the brake arm just gets squished up against the brake cone square end, and then the cone nut, or cone nut first and then brake arm. Based on star washer imprinting, and wear patterns this photo looks like the way it was together. But may not be correct. As far as the dust cap, it may need peened, or the taper of the brake cone is not protruding far enuff for the dustcap to seat. If that is the case, will require some head scratching to figure out how to extend the brake cone.
Beginning to think this brake arm does not belong to this hub. The hub has no manufacturer info. That i can find. It has four separate stripes that resemble heringbone grooves. Two stripes per side, with a narrow groove around the center. RJ the bike guy's video was a Bendix 70, and had the exact internal components as this hub, only difference being the brake arm hole. Given that Perry is an English company and allegedly many components were compatible with Sturmey Archer hubs; if you look at some sturmey archer brake arms that have the small, round, axle hole, in addition, they have the raised tab above the axle hole, just as this Perry arm does. That raised tab and entire area fit into a collet washer that matches the shape of the brake arm, that attaches against the brake cone, and locks the brake arm and cone together. So, i either find a different brake arm with a square hole, or i modify this brake arm to a square hole. May have to give it an offset, as well, not sure how much moving brake arm 2.5 mm inboard will affect alignment, but seems that it would.
Thanks 100bikes, yes. I ran across that diagram in my travels. And to correct how i erroneously described the "collet washer" on a Sturmey Archer, specifically, the S3C, which is very similar to the Perry 2 star brake cone in diagram above, it is the actual brake cone that is shaped to accept the "tab" on top of the brake arm, not a separate item. Apparently, viewing to many hub diagrams at once causes brain farts. Unfortunately, or fortunately, i am 99% certain that my hub is actually a Bendix 70, and not a Perry B-100, so the brake arm that came in the can of parts is not correct to my hub, and that explains why it does not jive. Sorry for the newb post, but i learned a lot.
Adamtinkerer
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
I think the Bendix 70 has angled raised lines in rows, going around the hub, while Perrys were smooth chrome. Perry hubs have about the weakest braking, so you may have dodged a bullet there!
Spacecowboy
Look Ma, No Hands!
Perry b100. Know that name. I had that brake arm come with a schwienfurt torpedo coaster hub on my 53 CWS Hurricaine.
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