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one lubricant have found helpful for gear blocks is Castrol Foaming Chain Lube

in comes in a pressurized spray can and goes on as a low viscosity oil and then "cures" to a higher viscosity lubricant with staying power

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t'is usually not necessary to open the gear block body

even if it feels gritty or gnashy the cause is typically dirt which can be washed out with a bath in parts cleaning solution

failures such as broken pawl springs are quite rare in my experience

if you would wish to open the body to learn about rebuilding it that is certainly fine but unlikely to be necessary


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s-l1600.jpg


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Ordered.
the front wheel has a special washer the fits the slot in the axle, assuming that holds axle from turning.
The axle also has a bump at the edge of the thread on that side, assumed the bearing cap is run it to there.
the other side is adjustment seems.
 
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yes,

sometimes on older Brit front axles one side is essentially fixed

when you have completed work on front wheel take care that when remount it to fork you place the side with the bump on the left (non-drive) side of the cycle

if mounted the other way round it is possible for the rotation of the wheel to tighten the cone down on the bearings


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Thank you.

the rear also had the bump on axle, did I notice which side it was on?
non drive you say.
FR4 was correct too often I get ahead of myself order tool & it is incorrect.
nice when it is correct.

this is a Sturmey archer bike mostly, will go through when I am reassembling make a list.
most of the rust has cleaned up soaking rear wheel parts, then clean chrome.
 
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