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Plating services

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Rusty McNickel

I live for the CABE
Can anyone recommend a plater in the Philadelphia, Pa/Camden NJ area? There's a few in the area but I'd feel more comfortable with a caber endorsement.
 
Well you have Franklin plating in pa.Great work but sky high price and long turn around time.I use this guy for all my powder coating and he just started a process called ARMOR CHROME.P.M.me for more information.He is in vineland n.j.
 
I've used Abbott's plating in Philadelphia several times for chrome plating services. They do awesome work and have fair prices, but it seems like they don't keep track of small items too well. In my experience I've had to call multiple times to check on the status of my items, but in the end everything has been finished within a reasonable amount of time and turned out great.
 
so to get an idea.. sorry new to chroming prices, what would (two totally different sized items to help give me an idea) from a 26" wheel to a handlebar to be chromed? -thanks!
 
so to get an idea.. sorry new to chroming prices, what would (two totally different sized items to help give me an idea) from a 26" wheel to a handlebar to be chromed? -thanks!
Wheel about $100-150 handlebars about $65. Complete deluxe ballooner figure about $800-1200. Phantom probably about $1500. V/r Shawn
 
These cost my $400 (The chrome shop) including shipping back to me... They were bad though and the pits couldn't be ground out. They actually filled the pits with tin (I believe) and sanded that down. Wash, rinse, repeat several times before they could chrome it.

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These cost my $400 (The chrome shop) including shipping back to me... They were bad though and the pits couldn't be ground out. They actually filled the pits with tin (I believe) and sanded that down. Wash, rinse, repeat several times before they could chrome it.

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I believe they use copper to fill the pits most of the time. Euphman brings up a good point here though. The condition of your parts will affect price as well. You also have to be careful with some platers that aren't familiar with bicycle stuff as they will get crazy with the grinder/polisher and take detail away leaving you with a very expensive shiny turd. This is why I use guys that know how to preserve as much detail as possible. It might cost a little more but if you spent the time to get the correct date coded hubs you want to make sure your plater isn't going to ruin them by polishing out the writing. V/r Shawn
 
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This is true... I didn't get the hub shell replated because the date code (which is barely visible under the right lighting) would have been completely erased. Shiny hoops, and ugly hubs, but didn't want to lose the date code.
 
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