powdercoat gone bad

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Astroyama

Look Ma, No Hands!
Hi gang.
I hope I can lean on the group once again to help me determine the best course of action.
I recently acquired a 1946-47 CWC/Roadmaster 226WH.
It had been powder coated but the finish is "crazing"/cracking (It should be visible in the pics).
I want to know if I should
1) keep the powdercoat finish on it, prep/rough that up and overcoat it with enamel, or;
2) remove the powdercoat and prep for a new finish.
Obviously removing that finish is going to be a chore that I'm really hoping to avoid, but I've got a feeling I already know what the best course to take is, I just want to hear it from someone wiser than myself, lol.
I'd really appreciate some "been there, done that" advice.

Thanks for your help.

View attachment 1365939
(MEK) Methyl Ethyl Ketone. MEK works well for softening and removing powder coat.
 

Hukah

Finally riding a big boys bike
(MEK) Methyl Ethyl Ketone. MEK works well for softening and removing powder coat.
I looked that up. Seems like just the product.
I'm going to get some and a quart of methanol-based stripper too, just to cover my bases.
Thx

MEK is a liquid solvent used in surface coatings, adhesives, printing inks, chemical intermediates, magnetic tapes and lube oil dewaxing agents. MEK also is used as an extraction medium for fats, oils, waxes and resins.
------It is a highly efficient and versatile solvent for surface coatings.
 

piercer_99

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Me either--at least bicycle related! Patio furniture is ok though. V/r Shawn
come on, wouldn't this look great powder coated?

instead of that old early 1900's enamel. o_O

1368535
 

Woodtickgreg

Look Ma, No Hands!
On a restoration I use paint and try to match the color as close as I can. But on a custom build I really like powder coat. But a good prep is key when powder coating. I like to sand blast everything, preferably with a medium glass bead.
 

Superman1984

I live for the CABE
Brake fluid will usually ruin powder coatings just like it does paint. Maybe not nowadays if they've "fixed" it but it used to. Poor prepping will usually cause powder to have issues. I'd strip it bare, clean the bare frame, find a paint in lacquer you like, and then clear with an enamel. Of course be cautious when you mix lacquer & enamels; you have to do light coats as enamels don't flash dry like lacquers & the chemicals have different properties. I used to hate lacquers but I think when I do my prime colors for 2 tones on frames this will be my next method.
 
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WetDogGraphix

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Brake fluid will usually ruin powder coatings just like it does paint. Maybe not nowadays if they've "fixed" it but it used to. Poor prepping will usually cause powder to have issues. I'd strip it bare, clean the bare frame, find a paint in lacquer you like, and then clear with an enamel. Of course be cautious when you mix lacquer & enamels; you have to do light coats as enamels don't flash dry like lacquers & the chemicals have different properties. I used to hate lacquers but I think when I do my prime colors for 2 tones on frames this will be my next method.
Why would you put enamel clear over lacquer? Just asking.....
 

Superman1984

I live for the CABE
Why would you put enamel clear over lacquer? Just asking.....
Some of the colors I want are only being found in lacquer sprays. The enamel clear is a lot more durable or harder than any of the lacquer clears. The lacquer will flash dry a lot faster & the enamel clear is easier to wet sand/buff wax. The downside is enamel gets chemically hotter during curing so it can soften a lacquer if it hasn't gassed & being sprayed in light coats for the 1st 1 or 2 coats. Am I wrong? Just what I've read through various paint forums.
 

RustySprockets

Look Ma, No Hands!
Some of the colors I want are only being found in lacquer sprays. The enamel clear is a lot more durable or harder than any of the lacquer clears. The lacquer will flash dry a lot faster & the enamel clear is easier to wet sand/buff wax. The downside is enamel gets chemically hotter during curing so it can soften a lacquer if it hasn't gassed & being sprayed in light coats for the 1st 1 or 2 coats. Am I wrong? Just what I've read through various paint forums.
I think you've got them reversed...lacquer over enamel is what often causes crazing. At least, that's how it used to be--I haven't done any serious painting in a while and realize the formulas have much changed since then.
 

Superman1984

I live for the CABE
I think you've got them reversed...lacquer over enamel is what often causes crazing. At least, that's how it used to be--I haven't done any serious painting in a while and realize the formulas have much changed since then.
Could be? It's been a while too but last time I was looking for a metallic gold spray paint to match fairly close to the CWC Roadmasters all I was finding was lacquer. I do remember a lot say 1 is safer but still a gamble if rushed. As always do it & find out I guess.
 
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