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PowderCoating? Good or Bad?

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PeterScherer

Finally riding a big boys bike
Hey all, I recently "reburbished" a 1952 Hawthorne Bicycle and was somewhat pleased with the result; but after 7 months of weather, bike-locks, and wear, it is looking a little hagard. My thought is to tear the bike apart again this summer and re-chrome all the bright-work, and powder-coat the frame/fenders. My question is this: Is there any problem with powder coating bicycles? I assume the frame will be fine, but what about the fenders? Can I even powdercoat those? I'll be moving to Texas this summer and I also wonder what damage the UV rays will do to a powder-coated bike? It'll be parked outside most days and will be ridden in pretty much all types of weather.

Please shoot me some ideas/suggestions. I'd greatly appreciate it.

~Peter
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Doesn't bother me. I have seen some very nice restorations that with the exception of the powder coating used as a base color, were as close to 100% as you can get. I have a rider Black Phantom that the previous owner powder coated and to most people, it is a decent job. I think the details like pinstripes by hand and proper decals are more important than the base coat. I will say that on the higher end, much higher end of vintage bike collecting, powdercoating then may take away from the value-resale but not always. There are respected restorers using powder but most still prefer paint. And there are purists (or painters) that will get out of shape over it since it isn't "original paint," I just prefer to find more import things to worry about...
 
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If you are not aiming for an accurate restoration, it doesn't really matter, unless you would like the increased cost for the durability of powder coating.
Make sure you remove your bearing cups and not let the process get into the crank hanger and inner head tube.
Chris
 
100 point resto's

And there are purists (or painters) that will get out of shape over it since it isn't "original paint,"

Very true. But those painters are disappearing just like the lead, cadmium and cyanide that was in the "original paint". I agree that the pinstriping and decals are more critical in order to make it appear more accurate.

... an accurate restoration...

How many restorers dip their frames in enamel and bake them in an oven and hand rub the finish? To me that is the only way to get some of these to be an accurate resto. Of course that also depends on the age of the bike and the different techniques and materials used. Those Schwinns (60's-70's) with their translucent paints are a bitch to match and a freegin pain to re-touch. Just remember what Uncle Leon told us about no clear coat on these classics. Big no no if you are going for accuracy.


I think that if you are going to ride it and keep it in the family, powder coat is just fine. If you have a museum and are curator of such museum... do more research and do it right... and document how it was done so future generations can see an accurate restoration.
 
I agree with all the above comments. Additionally, powder coating is much more durable and should outlast any paint when it comes to wear, tear and UV.

No sure if you can do fenders. Any flexing or movement of the fender may cause it to flake off, or crack at a minimum. See what your powder coated thinks.
 
Powder coating on rims works really well, it's super tough, especially if you're a hack like me when it comes to respoking! If they'd have been painted....yikes.

I am doing a girl's Schwinn middleweight and I'm going to do the frame and fork in powder coating, don't know yet if I can do the guard or tank since they are partial chrome, but PC will hold up better when traveling on a bike rack.

Darcie
 
How many restorers dip their frames in enamel and bake them in an oven and hand rub the finish? To me that is the only way to get some of these to be an accurate resto. Of course that also depends on the age of the bike and the different techniques and materials used.

Just an opinion here from personal experience cleaning up a lot of different bicycle manufacturers (prewar analysis only)...

Those that got baked for added strength:
Schwinn
HP Snyder
Iver Johnson

Those that were painted only:
Shelby
Colson
Westfield
CWC
Huffman

Chris
 
Without spending upwards of $500 for professional or auto body shop paint there are two choices rattle can or powder coat.With rattle cans you have to sand and primer first,With powder coat just take the parts as they come off.I have had every part off a bike coated.The most i have ever payed was $300 for everything.This was for two/tone also.The guy i use can mix/match to get spot on original colors,He also plugs all threaded holes so you dont have to retap threads.Also he has a chrome looking powder coat.
 
FYI.
I have used 2-part epoxy to fill dents on metal parts before powder coating. Just make sure you use epoxy with the highest temperature rating and tell the powder coating tech to lower the oven heat slightly.
 
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