Pre-War Hercules?

[dnc1]

I'll find out @Oilit.

 

[HPL]

1953 or 54, based on the hub. The hub is 1953, so the bike would be right around then. Sometimes they're dated the previous year and the bike is completed the following year. It's a Birimingham Hercules (a true "Hercules", not a Raleigh-made Hercules). Bike looks to have been over-painted with orange paint, based on the overspray on the top of the headbadge and the lower head tube race. Braces look painted too. But then it's also not missing a whole lot, so it's a good project. Hercules had hubs and shifter branded their own. The innards are very similar to the Sturmey AW, but some of the parts are a bit heavier-duty (e.g., the clutch). It's possible Brampton made the hubs for Hercules.
[

After doing some more maintenance/repairs (brakes/front wheel rebuild) I noticed that there is a "4" on the rear hub, indicating 1954 as year of hub manufacture. Thus, I'm assuming that the frame was made in 1954/55. Presently having an issue with the front brakes; the whole shoe assy wants to twist on the stirrup. This nearly caused my newly rebuilt wheel to have the spokes torn out. This happened with both the original pads and new pads. The stirrup seems to be fine with maybe a VERY slight bend (straightened now) in one "arm", but I can't see how that would cause this problem. On the opposite side of the bike the brake pad rides properly even though I discovered stripped and mismatching hardware on the stirrup guide. Could it be that the problem is caused by the guide on the opposite side of the affected shoe allowing excessive "play" to the stirrup due to "shifting" of the guide on the fork? Everything else is "golden" as far as function of this bike (still missing a rear spoke, but wheel still running true) except the saddle. I just broke it at the nose on a ride a couple weeks ago; I had yet to put the Brooks or RBR hairpin on as replacements so my fault. It's repairable, but I'll just keep it as a "show" saddle not for riding; I did find new replacement saddles from India where they are apparently making the Hercules brand today. I did notice that the leather is significantly thinner than the Brooks so I'm not surprised with the failure due to age and wear. I've only ever had one other saddle break on me; a '70s Fuji "belt" saddle that was cut into a "swallow" design and had the "support layer" under the main leather cut-away (not my modification). If you ever cut a saddle into a "swallow" style DO NOT REMOVE THE SUPPORT PIECE; also don't cut away the sides so much that there is not enough material to provide "stiffness" to that area; even my older Brooks Swallow saddles with thicker leather get weak there if not laced/reinforced! I'm experimenting with a "fake Brooks B.17"; cut out the sides, but left significant "tabs" in the middle area to "fold" under for lacing. Looking for "new" guides for the front brakes, or tapping out the existing guide to take a larger bolt.

Hope everyone had and has a safe and enjoyable holiday season!

 

[bulldog1935]

...Presently having an issue with the front brakes; the whole shoe assy wants to twist on the stirrup. This nearly caused my newly rebuilt wheel to have the spokes torn out. This happened with both the original pads and new pads. The stirrup seems to be fine with maybe a VERY slight bend (straightened now) in one "arm", but I can't see how that would cause this problem. On the opposite side of the bike the brake pad rides properly even though I discovered stripped and mismatching hardware on the stirrup guide. Could it be that the problem is caused by the guide on the opposite side of the affected shoe allowing excessive "play" to the stirrup due to "shifting" of the guide on the fork? Everything else is "golden" as far as function of this bike (still missing a rear spoke, but wheel still running true) except the saddle. I just broke it at the nose on a ride a couple weeks ago; I had yet to put the Brooks or RBR hairpin on as replacements so my fault. It's repairable, but I'll just keep it as a "show" saddle not for riding; I did find new replacement saddles from India where they are apparently making the Hercules brand today. I did notice that the leather is significantly thinner than the Brooks so I'm not surprised with the failure due to age and wear. I've only ever had one other saddle break on me; a '70s Fuji "belt" saddle that was cut into a "swallow" design and had the "support layer" under the main leather cut-away (not my modification). If you ever cut a saddle into a "swallow" style DO NOT REMOVE THE SUPPORT PIECE; also don't cut away the sides so much that there is not enough material to provide "stiffness" to that area; even my older Brooks Swallow saddles with thicker leather get weak there if not laced/reinforced! I'm experimenting with a "fake Brooks B.17"; cut out the sides, but left significant "tabs" in the middle area to "fold" under for lacing. Looking for "new" guides for the front brakes, or tapping out the existing guide to take a larger bolt.

Hope everyone had and has a safe and enjoyable holiday season!

If there's room on the brake shoe bolt, try M6 (1/4") bellville washers on both sides of the brake arm, with the crown side on both washers facing away from the brake arm.
And of course tighten enough to get some spring compression.
Here, they're used for shims to get the spacing I need for proper arm alignment on newer cartridge brake pads, but they bite better than flat washers.
(CPs adjusted this way are as good as any canti on the road)
but the point, with the bellville washers, you can't rotate these pads if you try - at least not without loosening them first.

 

[3-speeder]

So here is a picture of the brake shoes on my roller brakes from 1938. Minimal hardware really. An old style lock washer and a nut. I would probably have room for the belleville washers if needed and have used them on other set-ups thanks to Bulldog. That works well and might do the trick for you. The stirrup guides are threaded and just bolted to the curved brace. Wonder if those shifted on you?
Note: In the bottom photo the brace has already been loosened up and is not in the proper final position

 

[SirMike1983]

The mounts being uneven can lead to twisting of the brakes, depending on how far off they are - really depends on what's off and how much it's off. Rod brake rims should generally have a ridge in the center where the spokes mount to deflect the pads away from the spokes.

If you're twisting into the spokes and overcoming that ridge, something sounds badly off, but it can be any number of things without actually being able to examine the bike. Do you have any pictures of the mounts you're using? Usually you want the same style of mount on each side of the fork so that you get a uniform travel and engagement with the brake stirrup.

Spacers are something you will use even with proper mounting hardware - I have spacers of every sort on my rod brakes because none of them were perfect out of the box.

 

[RunGrampyRun]

Just picked this beauty up. Honored to be 2nd owner. SA hub dated August 1948. LR dropout stamped KK11535. SA Quadrant shifter. Seat tube decal “Sports Model”. Chainguard blocks air pump mount area so I think originally no chainguard. Handgrips not original any info on correct grips appreciated. Any additional info appreciated.
Thanks

 

[SirMike1983]

Left an answer in your new thread here:

Hercules Info | General Discussion About Old Bicycles

Just picked this beauty up. Honored to be 2 nd owner. Hub date 8/1948. 3 speed SA with SA Quadrant shifter. Handgrips not original, what would it have had originally. Seat tube marked “Sports Model”. Since chainguard blocks air pump mount I don’t believe it had a chainguard. Left dropout...

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