Pre- war Schwinn rear drum brake and axle schematic parts and sequence

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Nashman

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Good day all. I am looking for a parts break down and sequence of parts application ( picture if possible) for a pre-war Schwinn rear brake. This would be from the inside of the drum moving out ( left side of course) from the race with balls and grease, dust cap, cone ( that's a given) to after the cone to the final axle nut. There are obviously the fender braces and rack legs and a series of washers ( what type washers/what order?) and a lock nut? I've had some help from Cabers/pals so far, but would like a reference for now and future folks to use.

I have had the misfortune of my 1941 Autocycle's axle locking up and making a mess of things. The cone spun SUPER tight into the race dust cap. The rear wheel was literally seized. Then the right axle/freewheel side spun undoing the end nut. Sheesh!!

Taking the fender braces, rack legs, backing off axle/chain adjusters, pork chop anchor bolt, chain off, nuts, washers over and over is a chore, especially on a fresh resto. All in the fun of bike mechanics, eh?

At one point the axle was so tight the spoke ends at drum outside were brushing the pork chop...Yikes!! I placed a large flat washer after the cone ( after loosening) to create a spacer, but after some tips and tricks, I see there is a knurled/serrated lock washer of sorts ( a friend sent me a picture of his washer) with a D hole ( see pic) that likely goes against the cone. Apparently there is a thin lock nut to come into play as well, perhaps outside the porkchop?

I have the wheel spinning freely now ( on and off multiple times) and kept the cones a bit on the loose side, but fear ( I won't be riding this much/mainly a show piece/display) a repeat situation if the bike is ridden, will never be hidden. Mechanically, I've wrenched on dozens after dozens of bikes, cars, motorcycles, boats, scooters, wagons, you name it. Jack of all trades, master on none. I "get by". I'm never too proud to ask for help. If I can put something upside down, backwards, or topsy turvey, I usually will 1st, then 2nd, 3 time is usually a charm.

Thanks/see pics/ Bob

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Last edited:

cyclingday

I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
There should be a pin that sticks out of the adjusting cup, that the teeth of the serrated/toothed, D washer locks into.
It is what keeps the adjusting cup locked in position.
A lot of mistakes are made by guys getting too lazy to back the thin lock nut far enough out to make the cup adjustment, then re seat the star washer and then, re set the lock nut.
Usually what happens, is that the D/Star washer breaks, then needs to be replaced.
That’s what most likely happened to yours at one point, so then the owner ground off the pin on the adjusting cup, so that the lock nut would sit flat against the cup.
The reason for the flat on the axle, and the keyed D/Star washer, is to keep from happening, what keeps happening to you.
I’ll see if I can get a picture of the schematic for you.
 

cyclingday

I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
There are also a series of very thin washer/spacers that are used to get the free play in the freewheel body just right.
Also on the Brake Plate/Porkchop side, that can be used to get the distance from the spokes just right.
 

Nashman

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
There should be a pin that sticks out of the adjusting cup, that the teeth of the serrated/toothed, D washer locks into.
It is what keeps the adjusting cup locked in position.
A lot of mistakes are made by guys getting too lazy to back the thin lock nut far enough out to make the cup adjustment, then re seat the star washer and then, re set the lock nut.
Usually what happens, is that the D/Star washer breaks, then needs to be replaced.
That’s what most likely happened to yours at one point, so then the owner ground off the pin on the adjusting cup, so that the lock nut would sit flat against the cup.
The reason for the flat on the axle, and the keyed D/Star washer, is to keep from happening, what keeps happening to you.
I’ll see if I can get a picture of the schematic for you.
I see the tooth on the cone right/freewheel side. I think that side is ok/haven't dismantled that side ( could that be the problem/no #3893 washer??). I was looking for the details on the drum side, but obviously need this info too!. Is there a way the cone locks on the drum side too? Any pics/breakdown of that? Yeah, give me a little, I wanna lot...ha!! Here is what I see on this freewheel side, no washer to lock on cone # 3860 pin. Would that be a No #3893 then the thin lock nut on either end. Do you have the rest of the part number names? THANKS so much, but my sponge is only half full and it's a small sponge...ha!

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Nashman

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
There are also a series of very thin washer/spacers that are used to get the free play in the freewheel body just right.
Also on the Brake Plate/Porkchop side, that can be used to get the distance from the spokes just right.
Marty you are a wealth of info. I'm heading out for a motorcycle ride, will check in later. I was up to the wee hours on Thursday morning trying to figure this out. The wheel spins now, but I'm obviously missing some parts and direction. You have the direction, I think my pal Bobby U has some parts. Thanks!
 

Nashman

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
There are also a series of very thin washer/spacers that are used to get the free play in the freewheel body just right.
Also on the Brake Plate/Porkchop side, that can be used to get the distance from the spokes just right.
It sounds like I need some spacers and special star D washers, two at least/ I wonder what holds the cone on the brake drum side if there is no pin on that cone? and a picture showing the correct sequence and parts for both sides. This is almost "rocket science". For me anyway. In my current set up there is nothing to keep the cones fixed in one place. I get the theory for sure. If anyone has spacers and star D washers, please PM me, or an extra lock nut.. Thanks.
 

Nashman

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Are there pictures of the other numbers/example #3896. I guess both cones should have pins and star D washers and thin lock nuts and a series of spacers? I put a list ( hopefully makes sense/complete) in the wanted section. If I seem obsessed, I am. That's my good side...ha!!


Thanks!
 
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