Pre- war Schwinn rear drum brake and axle schematic parts and sequence

[cyclingday]

This is the pin that sticks out of the adjusting cup.
The lock nut gets loosened up enough to slide the D/Tooth washer back far enough to clear the pin.
Then the bearing cup gets turned in or out far enough to add or remove the free play.
Then the D/Tooth washer gets slid back in and locked in position by the pin.
Then the lock nut gets fastened down, then the axle nut gets secured.
The bearing adjustments are always made from this side.
The brake side of the hub is fixed when the axle nut is tightened on that side.
I have used a lock nut on the brake plate, if there is sufficient room between the frame/fork ends.
The lock nut on the brake plate simplifies the wheel removal by locking the axle cone and brake plate as a fixed unit.
Im not sure why Schwinn didn’t specify the assembly this way, because it secures the brake plate to the hub, which is handy when working on the loose wheel.
Just a personal preference of mine, to use a lock nut on the brake side as well.

 

[Nashman]

This is the pin that sticks out of the adjusting cup.
The lock nut gets loosened up enough to slide the D/Tooth washer back far enough to clear the pin.
Then the bearing cup gets turned in or out far enough to add or remove the free play.
Then the D/Tooth washer gets slid back in and locked in position by the pin.
Then the lock nut gets fastened down, then the axle nut gets secured.
The bearing adjustments are always made from this side.
The brake side of the hub is fixed when the axle nut is tightened on that side.
I have used a lock nut on the brake plate, if there is sufficient room between the frame/fork ends.
The lock nut on the brake plate simplifies the wheel removal by locking the axle cone and brake plate as a fixed unit.
Im not sure why Schwinn didn’t specify the assembly this way, because it secures the brake plate to the hub, which is handy when working on the loose wheel.
Just a personal preference of mine, to use a lock nut on the brake side as well.
View attachment 1655780

Wow, this makes sense. Is there not a lock nut needed on the brake side? I guess not if a lock washer is used at the pork chop and fork and holds the cone in place once the axle nut is tightened. Therefore the cone at the brake side doesn't have a pin or need a star D type washer? If I recall, the axle doesn't have a flat spot on this side anyway for the D star washer to be effective. Only spacers after the cone to ensure clearance of the spoke bases to the pork chop? I have a large flat washer as a spacer now/seems to work. So all I need is one star D washer for the freewheel side? Yes, I was dropped on my head as a baby.

 

[Nashman]

Now I hopefully just need Sam to do her thing ( and a star D washer) so I don't have to take the damn wheel off again!! If and when I get one, I may wait til Christmas anyway.

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[cyclingday]

You got it!
I just put one of those thin lock nuts on the outside of the brake plate/porkchop just to lock it in place.
It’s not called for in the Schwinn part sheet, but it works better for me, so that’s what I do.
Sometimes it makes it a challenge to get the wheel to slip in easily between the drop out/fork ends, but more times than not, it works just fine.