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Preserving decals

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rollfaster

Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
A friend just acquired a pair of 40 New World Lightweights and would like to know the best way to prevent the down tube decals for flaking. I suggested a very thin coat of boiled linseed oil but not sure if that’s the best remedy. Would love some ideas. @Schwinn499 @SirMike1983 @Eric Amlie

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I use acrylic clear (matte or gloss depending upon situation) sprayed from my airbrush. With the airbrush I can apply very light coats to avoid wrinkeling the decals and blend in the clear so that you don't end up with a shiny (or matte) section that stands out from the rest of the finish.

Avoid lacquer based clears or heavy coats and test your skills and compatability with scraps from materials you will be using. For instance, many waterslide decals have stock numbers on a corner. I cut this out and spray it to make sure my process won't spoil the decals.

I also use the same process for stickons.

By the way, if you are going to apply old stock decals, I spray a couple of light coats even before they see water as many older water slid decals will disinigrate when wet if left untreated. Of course you them must cut out the sections you intend to use removing as much of the clear as possible before wetting.
 
After a basic cleaning when I first get the bike, all I do is an occasional dusting with a dry, soft rag on my New World. My 1947 Transfer looks about like that, which is pretty normal for them at this point. I think "less is more" with old transfers in terms of just the occasional dusting, when they're in that kind of shape. If you're getting serious flaking, be sure the issue is not rust underneath the transfer and paint. Yours looks pretty clean there in terms of rust.
 
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would like to read the input of @HARPO here...


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Once flaking has begun, that's it for the decal. If not, a gentle washing is all I do to clean the decal and then a few coats of Carnuba wax (applied, removed, applied, removed) very lightly. I've never put any type of coating over a decal, even old ones. Perhaps I've been fortunate, even on old Schwinn's, to even do a light polish on them before applying a wax.

I've seen where sometimes a coating will turn them yellow, whether applied with a brush or sprayed on, and then that gets over the rest of the paint. Looks terrible...

Again, this is what I do. Maybe I've just been fortunate...
 
I've seen where sometimes a coating will turn them yellow, whether applied with a brush or sprayed on, and then that gets over the rest of the paint. Looks terrible...

Yes, I think a previous owner clearcoated my '71 P15 which has yellowed over the years turning the original Burgundy color to more of a dark red.
In this case I'm ok with it though as I've never been a big fan of Burgundy.

P1010351 (Large).JPG
 
A clear coat will make the color darker right off the bat. Has that New World been painted and re-decaled? The decal looks somewhat newer than an original, but that's my thought looking at the picture.
 
A clear coat will make the color darker right off the bat. Has that New World been painted and re-decaled? The decal looks somewhat newer than an original, but that's my thought looking at the picture.
From what I know, the pair was bought from
The original owner.
 
Once flaking has begun, that's it for the decal. If not, a gentle washing is all I do to clean the decal and then a few coats of Carnuba wax (applied, removed, applied, removed) very lightly. I've never put any type of coating over a decal, even old ones. Perhaps I've been fortunate, even on old Schwinn's, to even do a light polish on them before applying a wax.

I've seen where sometimes a coating will turn them yellow, whether applied with a brush or sprayed on, and then that gets over the rest of the paint. Looks terrible...

Again, this is what I do. Maybe I've just been fortunate...
This is typical of what I do when cleaning up a bike, just wasn’t sure what to offer in this situation.
 
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