Prewar forebrake help

[nightrider]

No luck in the wanted section. Also looked at the 4 page thread on these. Too much info, I'm still confused.
I need to figure out the hardware that I'm missing. Can a New Departure axel be substituted? And the order of installation.
Pictures below of what I have.
Note: I have 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bearing and 2 cones.
Also note: no letter or offset rivets inside drum. No patent pending, and has part # on pads.
.

 

[John G04]

Well finally took mine apart, a couple unwelcome surprises, bad race on one side and super bad cage aswell. From what i’ve heard most people run lose bearings with gear oil instead of cages. I think both of us are missing the top hat washer as well which are available on ebay

 

[cyclingday]

1st generation Fore Brake.
New Departure model W axle kit is interchangeable.
The cable comes down the truss rod on these early big brakes, so the lever on that first brake plate needs to be flipped around.

 

[Dave K]

. I think both of us are missing the top hat washer as well which are available on ebay

Looks like he has the top hat washer but would have to see the inside of the porkchop to be 100%

 

[Obi-Wan Schwinnobi]

His washer looks like it’s there

 

[Obi-Wan Schwinnobi]

whatever you end up doing, make sure the cones are not pitted and always run loose balls... you can get a better adjustment when you do.

 

[nightrider]

Looks like he has the top hat washer but would have to see the inside of the porkchop to be 100%

I have no idea what the top hat is.

 

[nightrider]

I think I know now! Thought that was built in! Thanks for all the help! One last question: What goes between the brake plate and the fork (a locknut and washer) or something else?
Johnny

 

[Obi-Wan Schwinnobi]

Since I’m running ND cones, I flip the hat washer to the outside and that’s it on that side...I don’t run any lock nuts on them.. never once have had any problems. If I had the original cones, then I’d probably run a lock nut on the non brake side. But when you are getting everything bolted up on the fork, you will want to engage the brake so it centers the pads inside the hub and then tighten the nut. This helps with the rubbing that you sometimes hear and it’s also listed in the schwinn shop manual as a thing to do haha.