Assuming that it has no derailleur (I believe they were all one speed, right?) then 1/8" chain, 1/2" pitch. Chains aren't sold to length anyway, so you'll have to cut it, easiest and best way is with a chain tool. Just get a chain long enough.
There's 2 ways to count links on a half inch chain. One way has one wide plus one narrow = 1 link. The other way has every link, wide or narrow, counted as a link. All chains I have seen recently have been advertised the second way.
If you don't have an old chain to measure, or there is some doubt, put the wheel in and lock it down pretty far forward in the rear forks or dropouts. Check that the wheel fits in the fender pretty nice, knowing that is it going to go back as the chain wears or stretches. Slightly too far forward is better than slightly too far back.
Now measure from the center of the axle to the center of the crank in inches. Multiply by 2 to account for the top and bottom run. Multiply by 2 one more time to convert from inches to half inches. Remember this number.
Count the teeth on the chainwheel and the teeth on the rear sprocket. Add them together. Divide by 2. This gets you the rest of the distance the chain has to cover in half inches. Add the number you get to the other number from the last step. This is the number of links. Add an extra link or two to allow both for the fact that this method ignores the angle of the chain, and for Murphy's law. Get a chain at least this long.
Wrap it on the bike and it should almost fit. Cut it taking into account that the wheel will move back a little when you tighten the chain, and you probably need the wheel fairly far forward in the slot. Don't forget to count the master link. Don't forget when you cut that you need the chain to have a thin link sticking out at both ends so the master link can attach.