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Question: New Departure Model D Rear Coaster Brake

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juanitasmith13

Wore out three sets of tires already!
The driver has two narrow sets of threads on it's outer edge. The smaller diameter is a left hand thread for the Sprocket lock. The next inner set of threads is a larger diameter and is for the Sprocket itself... Aren't these threads, the sprocket threads, right hand threads?
 
I have Three drivers with sprockets; and, I have not to date been able to hold driver well enough to undo SPROCKET...
Used three kinds of penetrant; Have applied shock with a bushing and a hammer; still need to [don't want to] apply heat; but these refuse to move any direction.
sprocket1.jpg


I know [have removed lock ring] that the locks are LH thread... where I learned THAT, I do not recall. I also know that when you have an axle cone [for an example] you hold it in place prepared to force Counterclockwise [removal direction] as you tighten lock nut [Clockwise]... both being RH thread; and, the lock effect works. The sprocket lock [LH thread] and the sprocket are on two different diameter of thread [to enable RH thread sprocket?]; How effective is the lock, if one is RH and the other is LH? "Glenn's Complete Bicycle Manual" is quoted below... he does NOT tell us the 'lock' is LH thread; do I mis-understand his line of sight?
sprocket2.jpg
 
By the way... HIS manner of clamping the hub in the vise... does not stop the hub from spinning freely if you try to remove the sprocket.
 
Like you, I've tried without success with this method. Also tried loosening the lock nut, installing the rear wheel, pedaling fast (in the bike stand), and then applying brakes. This is supposed to loosen the sprocket, but I couldn't make it work. I broke down and bought a New Departure cog removal tool. I had a big party and removed a bucket full of drivers/sprockets from each other.
attachment-26.jpg


1465940443071-521585492.jpg
 
I believe you are correct in your assumption that the sprocket is RH thread. It has been a long time since I have had one apart, but it makes sense that the pedaling action would tighten the cog, not loosen it. They make a tool for holding the driver while removing the cog, if you search this site I think you can find photos and/or diagrams of it. Perhaps from that information you could make something that would do the same thing. Good luck.
Well, that is cool - Pedal Junky and I were typing at the same time.
 
If wheel/hub is out of frame:
Loosen lock ring (it has a reverse thread) just a bit.
Put hub or wheel into frame or bike with a crankset and chain on it.
Attach brake arm to brake arm strap, tension chain, tighten brake arm strap nut/bolt and axle nuts.
Apply the brake with controlled leverage.
Cog will break free, stopped by lock ring.
Remove wheel/hub from bike/frame.
remove lock ring.
remove cog.

If the wheel is already in the bike, you can loosen the lock ring a bit without removing the wheel.
This can also be done with a hub that isn't in a wheel.
 
Thank YOU, Scott! My PK DX is still in temporary 'bomber' mode; so, it was easy to remove existing rear wheel. Besides, it has a super beautiful and comfortable, Leather Seat, from S.A. of Monrovia, CA. It also has a 1/2" inch chain; so, I removed two tonight... the one that started this mess [from PK Phantom restoration] came off with a loud report... however: I'm not BIG enough to apply enough steady pressure, I guess. I had to jump on it a couple times. Then, I tried the other one with 1/2" sprocket: I had not soaked, beat, or otherwise tried too hard, on this one... I couldn't budge it... so, I removed the right pedal and stuck my favorite 4' length of 1" cheater-pipe on the crank arm. A few jumps and another loud report...DONE! Now I wonder that this design even needs a 'lock' collar!

Scott, should this thread be moved to 'Restoration Help', to maybe more easily help others?
 
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