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Raleigh info please

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Superman1984

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
It has a 3 speed hub, Raleigh badge & 3 piece cotter style crank. Anybody want to inform me where or how to generally date it & any helpful knowledge? I may not restore it but I would maybe like to ride it before using it for just it's parts for customs. Common bike with no real value?
20201030_173923.jpg
 
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you will find a date clearly marked on the barrel of the bicycle's Sturmey Archer rear hub if the original is still there

looks like it might be a replacement

this cycle has been "worked on" which further reduces it value beyond its poor condition

stem, bar and handgrips not original

date looks like it might be in the vicinity of 1970

Raleigh bicycles can be dated by their serial number

there is a guide located here -


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you will find a date clearly marked on the barrel of the bicycle's Sturmey Archer rear hub if the original is still there

looks like it might be a replacement

this cycle has been "worked on" which further reduces it value beyond its poor condition

stem, bar and handgrips not original

date looks like it might be in the vicinity of 1970

Raleigh bicycles can be dated by their serial number

there is a guide located here -


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Thanks for helping as this is my 1st "foreign" bike & yeah I noticed the Schwinn approved grips right away. I know I've passed by these types of bikes before not knowing if any of them might even have any real value of $100 or even more. Trying to not keep that mindset
 
Hub is stamped;
Three Speed Hub
U.S Pat 302 PA28 ?
20201031_000029.jpg



I haven't seen Any Serials or #s stamped anywhere else or at least that was noticeable . I just would like to know approximate year before I either go through the hassles of making it rideable or start deciding what I will do with it custom wise
 
The rear hub is a "333" Shimano 3 speed hub and won't have a date code like a Sturmey Archer hub. These hubs also had bell crank assemblies on axle for changing gears. Thumb shifter looks like SA, but bars and stem is incorrect. Would probably have a Brooks saddle, which the one on your bike is not. Reflectors in pedals would indicate early to late 70's. The fact that it's a girls bike hurts any value, as does condition and missing fenders. As it sits, might be worth $30 or so for parts, but would need a lot of money (tires and tubes alone would be $60-70) put into it to be a rider.
 
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the same web site which has the serial number information also has an archive of Raleigh catalogues

if you check them you may be able to find an image of how your bicycle appeared when new

as suggested by jimbo53 above you could begin in the early 1970's



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@jimbo53 Thanks bud. I gave $10 for it. I have read about the Shimano 333 vs the SA hubs. They said they usually were junk until the later years with SA remaining king of the 3 speeds until the Shimano Nexus era. Other than the cable pull it seems to work fairly freely forwards & won't let the wheel roll backwards. I guess I have a cheap clunker to disassemble & see what my brain comes up with for something custom. I know it feels like a heavy pig & just the wheel alone feels like most of the weight. Now to see about servicing the 333 :|
 
Unscrew the barrel adjuster from the bell crank arm and take the bell crank off. There is a plunger going down into the hub. Squirt some WD-40 down there and be sure the hub has oil through the filler hole on the hub. They usually have hardened crud in there if not used for a long time that some oil and WD-40 will loosen up. Put it all together and run it through the gears. It should work better but might take a few times over a couple of days if it's really gummed up. I wouldn't try to take the hub apart without a schematic of manual drawing, of which I have not seen any for the 333 Shimano hub. These are really pretty good hubs, usually dating from the early 60's. Shimano was getting started about that time in bike parts and wasn't putting their name on parts, only 333. Good luck! Here's a pic of my 1957 Gazelle made by Raleigh with a 333 hub. Runs like a champ!

1b.jpg


6a.jpg


6.jpg
 
Unscrew the barrel adjuster from the bell crank arm and take the bell crank off. There is a plunger going down into the hub. Squirt some WD-40 down there and be sure the hub has oil through the filler hole on the hub. They usually have hardened crud in there if not used for a long time that some oil and WD-40 will loosen up. Put it all together and run it through the gears. It should work better but might take a few times over a couple of days if it's really gummed up. I wouldn't try to take the hub apart without a schematic of manual drawing, of which I have not seen any for the 333 Shimano hub. These are really pretty good hubs, usually dating from the early 60's. Shimano was getting started about that time in bike parts and wasn't putting their name on parts, only 333. Good luck! Here's a pic of my 1957 Gazelle made by Raleigh with a 333 hub. Runs like a champ!

View attachment 1293876

View attachment 1293877

View attachment 1293878
Wow that looks awesome for a "racer" style bike. I will take your advice on freeing the hub up some. The thumb shifter is Shimano & since I haven't ever tinkered with these types of bikes will be an educating experience. I am not even disappointed as I am always learning & have now figured out it's a Colt & found some serial #s stamped at the seat tube
 
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