• Due to some recent accounts having their passwords hacked, we are requiring that everyone set a new password. On your next login, you'll be given the option to choose a new one. Please follow current password guidelines for secure passwords. Sorry for the trouble!

Rattlecan paint job issues

Most Recent BUY IT NOW Items Listed on eBay
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture

jd56

Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
46a06b9fa40dce7b-1.jpg
46a06b9fa4225e66-1.jpg


OK, so I'm having some issues with the rattlecanned paint job I'm attempting.

After etch primer was applied and dried and sanded the minimal runs and reprimed (I have wiped with paint thinner and wiped dry to clean before coats), I applied the paint. Immediately it was apparent the primer started cracking / wrinkling effect, as though the paint reacted to the etch primer.
What am I doing wrong?
The pics above show the frame after primed, painted (one coat), and a quick application of clear. I thought maybe if I appled the clear I would be able to sand / buff and a miracle would take place. I know better. I shouldn't have applied the clear yet.
The wrinkling was slightly there before I applied a coat of paint.
Just to point out, all the canns applied were bought from a auto paint supply and were to be compatable with each other.

here what I'm using

attachment.php


At this point I will need to start over from the beginning, strip back to bare metal again. Bummer!!

I'm determined to do this repaint with spraypaint and could really use some help here.

Maybe the frame was not prepped correctly and when the paint adhered to the primer ....hell, I'm lost at this point.
 
Last edited:

KurseD

Look Ma, No Hands!
I'm at a loss as well. Normally you see this when using paints and clears that are not compatible. ie: enamels vs urethanes and etc. my only other guess would be curing time. I have seen this happen when you don't let the paint harden fully before applying a top coat (or paint too soon over primer). Basically what may be happening is the bottom layer of paint is curing at a different rate than the top layer. As it is curing it is shrinking or hardening and causing the top layer to wrinkle. Another tip totally unrelated, but I've done quite a few paint jobs and never use thinner as a prepping/cleaning wipe. I always buy a can of paint supply brand. glass cleaner and use that as my cleaning wipe. Windex or other glass cleaners work fine to so long as you don't use the perfumed styles. I guess it may be the alchohol in them, but they work great for me. Try letting each coat cure for a day or even two before applying the next type of paint or clear. Hope this helps.
 

jimsbeercans

Finally riding a big boys bike
OK, I will through this out there. I'm no paint expert so really forgive this if it comes across as not knowing or stupid.

Could all of that be effected by the evoprust not being cleaned real good??

timing issues??

Follow up with this. I will happen to us on something..bike, grill, bird house etc....
 

jd56

Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
I kept getting a few runs or build up from the etching primer and just kept resanding smooth, reclean the reapply the etching primer. There musty be 3 coats in some areas. Because when I sanded the runs etc out it took me to bare metal in a few areas...using 1000 sandpaper. These last touchup coats seem to adhere in the area that had gone to metal.
I'm thinking I didn't prep it thuroughly and the primer didn't adhere.
As I mentioned earlier I did apply a coat of flat black paint and waited a few hours and then applied a light coat of clear, with no sanding between applications.
I have sanded it this morning and it makes no sense to me but, the primer crackling / wrinkling seems to have gone away. I may have it so scuffed up I just cant see the defects.
But, I still think that I was too soon on the paint and clear.

I'm going to resand to the primer and metal as I think it will go to that when sanding. And start over.

Out of the etching primer so I might ry just primer and see what happens.

Thanks for the feedback.....windex, I'll try that as well, instead of the thinner.
 
Last edited:

jd56

Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
OK, I will through this out there. I'm no paint expert so really forgive this if it comes across as not knowing or stupid.

Could all of that be effected by the evoprust not being cleaned real good??

timing issues??

Follow up with this. I will happen to us on something..bike, grill, bird house etc....

Good point Jim but, never used the evapo-rust. I didn't mean to have that in the picture.

Again the primer seemed to take well to the frame, just the resanded and reapplied areas were affected. I must admit the etching primer didn't take much samding with 1000 grit to get to metal again.
Got me, Clean it well again next time.
 

ohdeebee

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
First of all, using anything from a can is never the best route to take. There simply isn't enough solids in the paint to allow you to work with it as far as sanding and buffing. The runs are caused by spraying too much at one time. Its better to do 3 or 4 thin coats (don't worry about coverage) than to do 2 heavy coats. If I have to use spraycan primer I would do 5 maybe 6 thin coats just to build it up, then sand it before spraying the color. Again, using primer from a gun will be considerably easier to build up as well as work down smooth. The first coats of color should also be applied very thin in order to build up the paint. I would probably do 5 thin coats of color and don't worry about coverage for the first two coats, just spray it evenly. I try not to use clear coat just because it isn't the correct finish for the bikes I paint for myself. If I do use clear for a client I try to apply it in one thin, even coat (again this is working with a gun, not a can). Also for color sanding, even 1000 grit may be too rough for spray paint, try 1500 at least and maybe as high as 2500 for the clear coat. I've never used clear from a can so I can't say for sure on that. Also, this isn't something that can be learned overnight. I've been painting now for almost 12 years and things still go wrong, and you still have to redo things occasionally, but you keep learning and getting better at it.

Here is a paint job with straight color, no clear, no wet sanding, no buffing:
042112110713-1.jpg


Here is a paint job with clear, but still no sanding or buffing:
MikeDXFrame-1.jpg
 

Dave K

I live for the CABE
How long did you let the primer dry? The paint might have reactivated the primer making it expand and contract causing the cracks. Also might have had something to do with the thinners escaping from the not all the way dry primmer.
 

jd56

Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
Thanks everybody.
ODB, No compressor so rattlecan is the method at hand. I'm determined to get this done this way. However, after all the extra work on my first repaint, I could have paid someone to paint it with proper methods and still it would have been cheaper and less aggravating. But this is part of the ojt of resto work.
I'm on a mission and will not let this bring me down.
Thin coats and many of them....got it. I decided to use a thin layer of semi gloss clear as I was using flat black. I wanted a little shine but not too much.

Dave, I maybe just too impatient and rushing things. The first coverage of the etch was a one day drying time. Then resanded and removed too much of the etch. Then reapply and only let it dry a few hours before I applied the paint.
I know, don't rush the process, and I should know better than to think I can produce perfection using a rattlecan, in a hurry.
But, I'm bound to get er dun!!!!!
 

KurseD

Look Ma, No Hands!
That's exactly what I was getting at earlier. Need to wait longer between layers of different paints and primers.
 

bikecrazy

I live for the CABE
Never use thinner as a cleaner. It will soften the primer and cause it to lift. Spray can paint can be prone to crazing and lifting so extra care must be taken during paint prep. Use a water based cleaner if needed but make sure it does not leave a film. Once you start putting on the color coat, remember that you only have an hour to get all your coats on. If you take too much time lifting will occur. Read the directions on the can. Good luck Done correctly great results can be achieved.
 
Top