Removing rear gear

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mickeyc

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Tried this in another thread (Workshop) maybe here will get a response. Trying to get the gear off this hub. Got the retaining ring off and pretty sure the gear is threaded on but doesn't want to move (righty loosy?) like the retainer. Afraid to clamp the piece in a vise too hard, don't want to damage it. Heat?
Any suggestions appreciated.

Mike
ring gear.jpg
 

Gordon

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Definitely threaded on. The threaded portions of the driver looks just like a New Departure. I believe the lock ring is left hand thread and the cog is right hand. I'm assuming the photo was taken before you removed the lock ring.
 

cyclingday

Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
The lock ring is a reverse thread, so you'll have to turn the spanner wrench to the right to loosen it.
These are usually pretty easy to remove.
The cog or sprocket is another story though.
The cog is threaded on in the normal fashion, so every time you cranked up that hill with all of your might, you were tightening the cog to incredible torque, so it will take incredible torque to remove.
A driver clamping tool and cog removal wrench helps a lot, so that you can hold the driver in the vise without damaging it, and get enough torque on it to get it to break loose.
Sometimes, it's easier to remove the cog with the wheel in the frame.
Then you can use the wheel for your leverage.
 

fattyre

I live for the CABE
Without a driver clamp and a big vise. Heres what works for me-

Best chances of removal are when the wheel is assembled and with a tire. Traction the tire provides really helps.

Back peddling using the drivetrain sometimes works but you add a bunch of resistance/loose a bunch of force that way. I also worry about tweaking the frame using that method too. 200+ pounds bouncing off a pedal on a ___ year old bike probably isn't good!

I converted a Park chain whip to one inch pitch and use that with the wheel off the bike. Wedge the wheel into a wall or super heavy object and see how strong you are. That has been the most successful way for me. Just be ready when it finally breaks free. Fingers & face!

Heat obviously works well to, but I try everything else first so not to distort color and I don't like breathing burning old grease. Can't tell you how many times I've had to reassemble parts just because I forgot that cog removal is really the first step in total hub disassembly.

I've stood on chainwhips with at least a foot long lever to get them to crack free. Beware of spoke tension at this point too. You can really put a tremendous load on them & the rim.

Sometimes its way easier to find a different driver & cog.

I've gone as far as spoking up a junk rim just to be sure I don't trash a nice original.
 

spoker

Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
once you remove the lock ring you can put the hub back on your bike,keep ridding it and jaming on the brakes till the sproket comes loose
 

bike

Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
In Memoriam
All good but it seems having the hub out of the wheel means- driver tool or respoking-- I learned this the hard way also
 

weebob

Finally riding a big boys bike
OLD SCHOOL way[ because not having the right tools] ,{presoak gear threads with PB BLASTER penetrating spray overnite, ,wd 40 usually does not cut it] the lock ring with slot is clockwise removal...channel locks or pipe wrench,,gear removal is counter clockwise,,clamp the brake arm in the vise, very tight but don't bend the arm,,,grip the teeth on the gear with pipe wrench and a 4 foot pipe,apply even pressure [counter clockwise] don't twist or yank on it will bend the brake arm ,,If you don't have a good vise put a 4 foot pipe in the driveway, drive your car up on the pipe, put brake arm in pipe,,,no car? have your wife sit on it,,[THE PIPE that is] I'm guessing you are replacing the gear because of the worn teeth? if none of this works PM me.....WEEBOB
 
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