Removing rust from paint, exhausting my resources

[partsguy]

I am trying to bring back the paint on the frame and fork of this blue '55 Radiobike. I really, really want to save any of the original paint that I can. I KNOW the paint is underneath and mixed in with this rust. I tried WD-40 and a green kitchen scrubbing pad. I tried WD-40 with 0000 steel wool. Even tried letting the WD-40 soak for a period of time. I tried rubbing compound. All produced miniscule results, if any.

I tried all of the above on a red '55 Radiobike, and they all worked quite well. So I guess the rust I am dealing with is deeper than I thought. I have heard and read various opinions about Evapo-Rust, Oxalic Acid "wood bleach", and other chemicals. Not sure which path is best for this particular bike.

I am open to any suggestions you all have. Repainting is the VERY LAST resort. I just can't leave a rusty frame and fork with brightly-colored, albeit scratched up, parts on it. I want this bike looking it's best.

Thanks in advance!

 

[SirMike1983]

It looks to me like that rust is on the surface of the frame itself rather than on paint. The paint itself may be gone from those areas, though there's a chance you get lucky.

The deal with using chemical means to dissolve rust is that you will go down to bare metal if indeed that rust is on the surface of the steel itself. The result will be grey steel and blue paint, not any kind of "brown" or "patina" or what-have-you.

https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2015/08/removing-rust-from-fenders-oxalic-acid.html

Here is what I mean, above. The fender on the left was cleaned with oxalic acid; the fender on the right with WD-40 and 0000 steel wool. The Oxalic Acid will remove that rust right down to grey steel, even in small pits. The Oxalic fender is much cleaner, though perhaps it has a less "consistent" condition. Evaporust will do the same thing, but you don't have to mix up crystals like with the Oxalic Acid.

This all amount to a gamble - is there paint under that rust? If not, you'll have mostly a grey steel frame with patches of blue paint. It will be cleaned of the rust but it will look a bit odd. Only you can really assess if there's any paint under that rust because you have the frame on-hand.

And I'd lean toward Evaporust rather than Oxalic Acid for a frame. I wouldn't want Oxalic Acid crystals left inside the tubing, though you probably could get it pretty clean and then shoot Frame Saver or something in there afterward.

 

[partsguy]

It looks to me like that rust is on the surface of the frame itself rather than on paint. The paint itself may be gone from those areas, though there's a chance you get lucky.

The deal with using chemical means to dissolve rust is that you will go down to bare metal if indeed that rust is on the surface of the steel itself. The result will be grey steel and blue paint, not any kind of "brown" or "patina" or what-have-you.

https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2015/08/removing-rust-from-fenders-oxalic-acid.html

Here is what I mean, above. The fender on the left was cleaned with oxalic acid; the fender on the right with WD-40 and 0000 steel wool. The Oxalic Acid will remove that rust right down to grey steel, even in small pits. The Oxalic fender is much cleaner, though perhaps it has a less "consistent" condition. Evaporust will do the same thing, but you don't have to mix up crystals like with the Oxalic Acid.

This all amount to a gamble - is there paint under that rust? If not, you'll have mostly a grey steel frame with patches of blue paint. It will be cleaned of the rust but it will look a bit odd. Only you can really assess if there's any paint under that rust because you have the frame on-hand.

And I'd lean toward Evaporust rather than Oxalic Acid for a frame. I wouldn't want Oxalic Acid crystals left inside the tubing, though you probably could get it pretty clean and then shoot Frame Saver or something in there afterward.

Very good info! Judging by the wear on the rest of the parts (they were in an attic, bike itself ridden for decades after they were removed), I would say there are a lot of areas that will be barren of any paint, especially on the rear tubes of the frame, where the chain, kickstand, road debris, and other things wore the paint off. That allowed the rust to start. The top tubes, seat tube, down tube, and headtube seem to have paint, but it is very thin, almost looks like it faded badly in the sun in some areas.

An evapo-rust bath may be the last step to take before a repaint. But, I'll cross that bridge when I get to it See what I mean though? The frame and fork are oxidized badly while all other parts, while scratched, are in very good condition. A repaint, as hard as it is for me to swallow on this rare bike, may be the BEST solution in my eyes. I mean, the tank almost looks like it didn't come with that frame because the colors are so drastically different.

 

[GTs58]

The paint on the frame is gone with the wind. What was the original paint type on these, a candy? Looks kinda like the Schwinn opal blue.

 

[partsguy]

The paint on the frame is gone with the wind. What was the original paint type on these, a candy? Looks kinda like the Schwinn opal blue.

The more I scrubbed it, the more I realized it. I'll still try evapo-rust, what else do I have to lose?

 

[GTs58]

I think you will be wasting your time, but it's your time to waste. Check out one of my Radiant Blue forks here. There is no exposed rust, it's all under the paint. The inside of the fork legs are solid rust under the candy blue and it looks 10 shades darker than the frame. Nothing can be done with this other than a repaint. And then look at my stripped frame that was black. After a chemical paint strip, I had nothing but rust to deal with. That is not primer, it was all rust from missing paint and underneath the paint.

 

[partsguy]

Ick. That is too bad. That is definitely a pitfall to the candy paint of the 1950s and 60's. Radiant Blue is very close. The tank and chainguard on my bike is nice enough to get a laser match done though.

 

[GTs58]

With the candy paint you can see the rust underneath. Solids will not show the rust underneath the paint, but believe me it's there. Worn out paint is really porous and the moisture will infiltrate the paint if not waxed or protected with something.

Metalcast Blue may be a close match to your bike if you want to try that first.

 

[partsguy]

If I so choose, isn't it possible to age the new paint? Even just a little?

 

[GTs58]

I've had good luck ruining new paint by wiping it down with xylene. Goof Off will ruin/age it even better.