Resilion brake cable clone

[Bazil4696]

The take up adjuster was crafted using S.A.E. threads that look close.

Original on the left.

 

[Bazil4696]

This is one side of the part of the cable that terminates at each canteliver.

The slotted tee mounts on each leg of the canteliver. Then, there is a spring inside hollowed out telescoping sleeves that give the tension when pulling the cable. I got the springs from Mcmaster-Carr, sized from wire dia, spring dia and length of original ones

 

[dnc1]

'Resilion' brakes have a pretty varied reputation over here. People either really love them, or really hate them, depending on who you talk to.
I don't have any experience of owning or using a bike fitted with them personally.
Occasionally you see genuine 'Resilion' dealership parts boxes come up for sale (I've seen a couple in the last 6 months on Ebay) but they sell for good money (high prices) usually.
I think what you're attempting is pretty admirable in terms of keeping things as they were were when you acquired the machine. If somewhat difficult/time consuming/frustrating to achieve.
I'm wondering if your tandem is a little earlier in date than you believe it to be.
I think 'Resilion' cantilevers could have been an option in 1952, but hub drum brakes and/or GB calipers may have been more likely by that time..
I'll see what info I can dig up.

 

[Bazil4696]

Now that all the machining was done, it was time to assemble it. I made a jig to locate each sub assembly so I could silver solder the splitter junction

I used the original assembly to fit some aluminum angle that I machined, then mounted each piece to a plastic base.
You can see the cable junction that needs to be exposed for soldering

Original sample. Note steel plate between angles protecting plastic from brazing torch.

Cloned replacement

 

[Bazil4696]

'Resilion' brakes have a pretty varied reputation over here. People either really love them, or really hate them, depending on who you talk to.
I don't have any experience of owning or using a bike fitted with them personally.
Occasionally you see genuine 'Resilion' dealership parts boxes come up for sale (I've seen a couple in the last 6 months on Ebay) but they sell for good money (high prices) usually.
I think what you're attempting is pretty admirable in terms of keeping things as they were were when you acquired the machine. If somewhat difficult/time consuming/frustrating to achieve.
I'm wondering if your tandem is a little earlier in date than you believe it to be.
I think 'Resilion' cantilevers could have been an option in 1952, but hub drum brakes and/or GB calipers may have been more likely by that time..
I'll see what info I can dig up.

I thought this bike was pre-war, but a couple features point to 1952.

Serial number for these years is pretty well documented.

Williams cranks dates to 1950.
Seems old, but not unusual
To have 2 yr old stock for tandem specific items..

Cyclo gears are post-war "C" design

And mid rails between chainstays and seatstays are post-war only.

 

[Huguenot]

I started with the hardest component, the splitter housing. View attachment 1545357
My first few attempts were not successful. I made a forming tool out of aluminum to hold the shape while I pressed it.

Looks quite a bit like a 30-06 case with the head cut off, wonder how far off they are size-wise?

 

[Huguenot]

Now that all the machining was done, it was time to assemble it. I made a jig to locate each sub assembly so I could silver solder the splitter junctionView attachment 1545404
I used the original assembly to fit some aluminum angle that I machined, then mounted each piece to a plastic base.
You can see the cable junction that needs to be exposed for soldering View attachment 1545407
Original sample. Note steel plate between angles protecting plastic from brazing torch.View attachment 1545408
Cloned replacement

I really enjoy seeing this type of detail machine/fabrication work. More please.

 

[Bazil4696]

Looks quite a bit like a 30-06 case with the head cut off, wonder how far off they are size-wise?

The narrow wall shown in the pictures is only as deep as the flattened crimp feature. The inside dia of the small diameter functions to sleeve the adjuster and is thicker walled, just to provide a sliding fit for the take-up, and support the hex adjusting nut at the face.

 

[Bazil4696]

First mid cable take-up at captain's seatpost

The final take-up fits inside the splitter housing, mounted on the stoker's seatpost, then there are two more adjustable sleeves on each canteliver to tune and centre the brake pad on the rim.

 

[Bazil4696]

I chose to mount the cable on the mid- cross bar, because of how it fit, but as you can see, it does fit across the boom tube as well. The boom tube fit was how it was purchased I'm not sure which way is correct yet.
I plan on making brass cable clamps to finish the job, once I've made a new front brake cable and a new cyclo dual cable shifter assembly.

Cable across boom tube as purchased.