Hi Shawn
I can only speak for myself, but the reason I don't freely hand out the paint codes is, first of all, I had to find and buy original cans of usable 50- to 70-year-old paint to match. Then I had to pay a color tech to match them, which was not cheap, believe me. I'm just not willing to hand that over as it's my proprietary paint code now for both color and formula. That's one thing people often do wrong is use the wrong TYPE of paint. I have had mine matched to a T as far as the formula as well. People often want to use a clearcoat on their paints, well, Schwinn didn't use a clearcoat, at least on the paints for which I sell. They did on some of the '60s and '70s stuff however. You also need to use the right shade of primer to achieve the color and finish as Schwinn intended it.
If you take your time and use proper procedure, you can definitely achieve a professional result. Take a look on my website at the brown/tan and the tan/brown 1935 Cycleplane/Motorbikes. I did both of them 100-percent from rattle cans to demonstrate this, as well as my 1938 Cobalt Blue Motorbike. The "rattle cans' are not the type you'd find on the shelves of Home Depot or a hardware store, they have a much different flow and fan spread and spray much differently. They are automotive grade cans, which are used to spray door dams, roof pillars, etc, and work very, very well.
If people are interested in paint by the pints, I'm happy to accommodate those requests. Often people are shocked at how expensive it is, though. For example, a lot of people are unaware that ANY paint that uses a red pigment? More expensive (such as Cobalt Blue). Maroon and Red ?? Very expensive, nearly 175 percent more expensive to be exact. I sell most all of the prewar/postwar non-metallic colors, Pete at Hyper-Formance in Arizona has the '60s and '70s colors for Sting-Rays and some of the metallics as well.