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Restore braking power to Early Musselman or Peerless armless coaster

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Put a wedge of aluminum flashing under the triangle part. I couldn’t match a pipe diameter and angle grinder method to match close enough to work. I may have used JB Weld to hold the flashing in place, don’t remember. Worked.
 
Btw, what is function of knurling on clutch piece?
20230520_181902.jpg
 
Btw, what is function of knurling on clutch piece?
View attachment 1841204
When back pedaling, the helical sleeve moves to the rightl
=> Braking
When forward pedaling the sleeve moves left and the knurling is compressed into the hub, the knurled surface is tapered and fits into another, negativ taper of the hub shell
=>Riding

Sidenote:
The downside of this arrangement: the bearings are constantly compressed due to the axial force from braking/accelerating.

The drive mechanism can be accomplished by better methods (e.g. balls on ramps) without bearing compression and less friction while freewheeling.
 
Wow. Very interesting! The inside of hub driveside is tapered but mine has smooth surface. If the knurling (pic) gets worn down /smooth will forward pedaling just slip?
20230520_181902.jpg
 
Yes the taper is smooth in the shell. Regarding the knurled/tapered driver. You would think so. The one Musselman that I have has instant engagement and never slips with some wear. There is an enormous amount of force being applied to it but someone may know if they do eventually fail to hold if worn down too much.
 
Yes the taper is smooth in the shell. Regarding the knurled/tapered driver. You would think so. The one Musselman that I have has instant engagement and never slips with some wear. There is an enormous amount of force being applied to it but someone may know if they do eventually fail to hold if worn down too much.
I have 3 that are worn out. The design is the same but the internal parts don’t have the same dimensions so I can’t use three to make one.
 
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