Restoring chrome

[Freqman1]

Actually the best way if you aren't going to rechrome is to just buff the metal parts out and treat them with a coat of wax. A lot of work but looks almost just like chrome. Nothing on the below bikes rechromed-all polish. These are my dad's bikes .V/r Shawn

 

[climbamnt]

Thanks all.

 

[The Carolina Rambler]

I'll chime in. Let's say if I was in your position with that spring, and I could not get a new one. I would take coarse, 60 grit sand paper, and by hand, sand around the outside of the entire spring, until it was as smooth as possible, and the pits look just like small black flecks. Then, I would take a small fine round file, and small fine flat file, and again, by hand work over the entire outer surface, filing in a consistent grain, until the black flecks are gone or almost gone. The file will also align the grain of the metal, and give it a smooth polished chrome like finish. I would finally , rub over it with a stainless steel sponge, removing file marks, and immediately once dry, clear coat it with generous coats of clear acrylic spray or lacquer. Wear a good dust face mask or respirator. This is a lot of work, but it will yield a very good looking and presentable result, that closely resembles chrome. It can be mistaken for chrome if done well. You will work your fingers pretty hard though. Here is a couple of examples:

 

[Tour De Luxe]

Hi all .. I have question about repairing/restoring chrome. I am looking for a way to restore without sending it out to be dipped. I see some spray paints out there. I would appreciate any advise !

If just surface rust with light pitting, I use crumpled up aluminum foil dipped in an oxalic acid solution, but I’ve heard from others that used WD-40 or even plain old water. Here’s a chain guard on a ‘73 Varsity before treatment and afterwards mounted on the bike. I spray a corrosion preventative on after cleaning.

 

[climbamnt]

I'll chime in. Let's say if I was in your position with that spring, and I could not get a new one. I would take coarse, 60 grit sand paper, and by hand, sand around the outside of the entire spring, until it was as smooth as possible, and the pits look just like small black flecks. Then, I would take a small fine round file, and small fine flat file, and again, by hand work over the entire outer surface, filing in a consistent grain, until the black flecks are gone or almost gone. The file will also align the grain of the metal, and give it a smooth polished chrome like finish. I would finally , rub over it with a stainless steel sponge, removing file marks, and immediately once dry, clear coat it with generous coats of clear acrylic spray or lacquer. Wear a good dust face mask or respirator. This is a lot of work, but it will yield a very good looking and presentable result, that closely resembles chrome. It can be mistaken for chrome if done well. You will work your fingers pretty hard though. Here is a couple of examples:

View attachment 1700425

View attachment 1700431

Thanks! I’m going to give this a try. Even if I don’t do a great job on it, I think it will be a good learning experience

 

[Skiroule69]

I love to experiment with finishes, and have tried a few methods for salvaging old chrome. For light rust (wheels, sprockets) I get great results from a piece of 0000 steel wool soaked with PB blaster. Then buff the cleaned chrome with some rouge and keep a good coat of wax on it for preservation. For bigger scabs I use a light wire wheel, then buff and wax. For rough looking stuff I've used POR 15 rust remover (which has to be soaked), then rinse well and wash with dish soap (which has silicone in it) then either shoot clear over it, or give it a glaze of light oil.

If you decide to go the chrome route, 90% of the price comes from what the shop has to do to prep your part. If you sand it down first and get it smooth as glass BEFORE you take it in, it'll come out much nicer. Keep in mind, any pits that are in the part prior to chrome, will be there when it comes back. People think of chrome as a thick coating when it's really not. Hence why excellent surface prep is key.

 

[Freqman1]

I love to experiment with finishes, and have tried a few methods for salvaging old chrome. For light rust (wheels, sprockets) I get great results from a piece of 0000 steel wool soaked with PB blaster. Then buff the cleaned chrome with some rouge and keep a good coat of wax on it for preservation. For bigger scabs I use a light wire wheel, then buff and wax. For rough looking stuff I've used POR 15 rust remover (which has to be soaked), then rinse well and wash with dish soap (which has silicone in it) then either shoot clear over it, or give it a glaze of light oil.

If you decide to go the chrome route, 90% of the price comes from what the shop has to do to prep your part. If you sand it down first and get it smooth as glass BEFORE you take it in, it'll come out much nicer. Keep in mind, any pits that are in the part prior to chrome, will be there when it comes back. People think of chrome as a thick coating when it's really not. Hence why excellent surface prep is key.

It may depend on the plater but I prepped a batch of parts one time and got no discount. Now I just send it in crusty and let them take care of it!

 

[catfish]

Replate it

 

[Sped Man]

Put Bad Chad flexible chrome on it

 

[highship]

Here is a bike I built years ago for a contest and a screen shot of an old post talking about it…I still use this method today and it works great. I can get bare steel to resemble chrome and it’s been holding up great for years. I will say however that your particular part would be tough. My fingers hurt just thinking about it.