I was unfamiliar with the Schwinn (now KooleStuff) process and decided to go to the source. Here's what they say:
(Me)
Hi there. I'm looking at your Schwinn paint restoration kit and can't figure out what the aluminum base coat is for? There's already a grey primer, and I believe the Campus Green color has gold-colored flakes. What purpose does the aluminum base coat serve?
Thank you very much.
(KooleStuff)
The silver / aluminum base coat has to be applied after the primer in order for the candy color (which is very sheer ) to work properly...if you don't it's a disaster. The color has to be applied in very, very light coats to achieve the right look... patience is an understatement
GW |
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IDK what They're doing except my 69 has red lead primer and Schwinn did NOT use a clear coat. Given that, I expect their "Formulas" are biased , primarily, on old touch up paints and or Scanners from original bikes. and they are NOT the same as what Schwinn did on factory paint. The only reason I can imagine that they want to apply a clear coat on a radiant color would be because their colors include small metal flake and clear coat creates the depth that looks like Schwinn.
Lotta years gone by but I used both; cheep rattle can and Schwinn's own spray paint long time ago. I Spent good money on Schwinn's crap paint. Except for better color match, regardless of the BS Schwinn Dealers, claiming it being harder and so much better, it chipped off just like the cheapest possible rattle can junk. It's a metal flake and did not have a the same depth and body of original paint. So, I mean, it wouldn't be a big secret of theirs, I'd ask em about metal flake verses a translucent/transparent "Campus green." Otherwise you shouldn't need to waste money on clear coat. And Hell, for more than 200 bucks, on rattle can junk, I'd be at the counter of auto and industrial paint store ordering up up a scan for Imron paint. Trek Used in the 80's and, I think 90's too. Ya can't get it in Calif. But It's not outlawed in other states. There's a store near me that claims they can scan and color match my Trek but I haven't tried em. Yet I used it on my 41 Chevy early 80's. It Nailed my color code 'Cameo Cream' and is the hardest, longest non-baked paint me ever seen. For Auto or Bike non professional albeit Ur Not gonna multy-coat and it'll be tiny metal flakes and ya gotta mix it timely, correctly but, it's pure awesomeness.
Also, Schwinn's 1st coating is not an acid wash/dip it's a Phosphate dipped coating over raw steel as Rust inhibitor. It's a win, win B/C you are coating inside the tubes too. Hence, Cool Lemon is 3 coat. 1. Phosphate, 2. Red Lead primer, 3. Yellow. [wink]'. BTW NO! ya can't apply Phosphate over paint or stuff ya sanded down unless it's all the way down to raw steel.