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Resurrection vs. Restoration

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You're doing some terrific work on that frame, it's worth saving! If you sand it to 600, might as well keep going. I had to start with a file on some spots on mine, then work my way up to 2000, finishing with Maas metal polish. I say it like it's no big deal, then again, I'm still procrastinating doing my handle bars and speedo stem because the memory of doing the frame must not be far enough out of my mind yet...
 
I hear you in regards to the easy part being the grits above #600, it's the total elimination of all flaws below #220 that give that perfect look that are killing me!!
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The job never ends...
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...and then you need sunglasses, and somebody to keep the damned thing clean. I'm getting way too old!
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Wow, I really admire your welding skills and craftsmanship. Yeah there's other players in the court but most of them use computerized machinery and digital equipment. Very few use their hands and manual skills to perform complicated tasks. Great job, congratulations!
Too kind. Not all my craft. Like many of us out there, I find the talent that I'm short on or that is better than mine. I do what I'm good at, and invite those with more skill or tooling to help with improving the end result. My strong points are enthusiasm and endurance.
 
This was the last nightmare to tackle. The set-screw that holds the lock was removed over 6 months ago. I've soaked, heated, twisted, and almost even pounded on to no avail. This lock won't budge. I've rebuilt the one in the Flo-Cycle, so I have an understanding of what I'm up against to some degree. I came to believe it needed a push from behind, and I decided to drill just off center of top and bottom of the cylinder from the other side of the frame.
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It was only going to be two holes, but when tap tap tapping didn't feel right, well...
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Looks ugly. I'm almost ashamed but the hammering needed to happen at the edge of the lock to keep from damaging it.
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Here's where the drill bit hit the lock. The one at 6 o'clock was the the one I wanted. Pop goes the weasel. Out it came.
The rest of the process is about making the key. Drilling out the stepped cam gains access to the guts of the matter.
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The ten wafers must be flush with outside of the inner cylinder. Any protruding wafers will be caught in the groove, keeping the lock locked. Making of the key is in another thread posted in The Workshop-Oct 20.
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Thanks. Hopefully this sort of abuse won't happen again. I'm thinking of installing some Heli-coils to assist in no frozen threads in the future.

I'm admiring your old-timey repair skills.

Growing up in my father's machine shop, I watched him do repairs like this hundreds of times. We lived on the coast of Maine, so his work was mostly for marine applications. I've seen him do some miraculous repairs to cast iron, cast aluminum, cast bronze, and zinc. After I got out of the USAF, I used the skills he taught me to repair obsolete printing presses and other manufacturing machines that were abandoned by their original manufacturers. How do you buy a replacement widget for a thingamabob, when they no longer exist? You can't! You make one!

Kudos to you, TR6SC. Beautiful work you are doing, and what a prize you'll have when complete!
 
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