Rust on paint.

[OhioJones]

Nothing so far- they have been sitting a couple of weeks in my garage and look as they do in the picture. They came from a 1938 CWC Cadillac. Given the results, I ultimately did WD 40 plus 0000 Steel Wool on the rest of the bike because I think the relic results are more consistent with this project than the Oxalic Acid. Which method you use depends on what you want out of the project- a more complete "cleaning up" or a "relic" type look with signs of age largely present.

Photo's?

 

[CapnCwby1969]

Hi there! Would PB B'laster work better than WD-40?

 

[Kato]

If the rust is really bad I mix about 80% WD40 with Naval Jelly - - - mix it really well like scrambled eggs and good it on.
Start with 00 steel wool slowly working down to 0000 steel wool and WD40
Recently started using Turtle Wax Polishing Compound as my last step.........works really well.

Patience is the key to all of this like others are mentioned
Too aggressive and you can remove stuff you want to keep..

 

[the tinker]

You should post a picture of your project so we can see exactly what you would like to do . Steel wool and even some of these cleaner type waxes can quickly remove pin stripes and graphics. Be careful......

 

[SirMike1983]

Here's a comparison. Both fenders came from one project. Both were in about the same condition. The fender on top is oxalic acid applied via bandages (not a full soak-- wanted to preserve the braces) and the fender on the bottom is WD40 and 0000 steel wool.

Both fenders cleaned up relatively well and retained good original paint generally. The surface rust on top of the paint (the 'staining' type rust) was gone from both. The white cleaned up on both. The difference is that the steel wool and 0000 leaves the tiny specs of rust in the pitted areas, whereas the chemical method of the oxalic pulls the rust in full, even in small areas.

Which do you prefer? The steel wool method, I think, causes a more consistent finished condition. I think both fenders look good overall. The oxalic fender is certainly cleaner, but the lower fender looks a little more 'consistent'. The original paint is preserved on both, so the main goal is met. But the question then is do you go for the "cleanest" you can make it (oxalic) or do you go for a more 'consistent' condition (0000 steel wool). Either can clean your fenders and remove stains, but then the question is what condition and presentation you're shooting for. Each has a place in the toolbox.

 

[Kato]

Hit that with polishing compound now and it'll look even better......!!

 

[Bajaway]

Where do I buy oxalis acid?
And in what form thanks

 

[the tinker]

It's sold on line in bulk very cheap. Also some Ace Hardware stores stock it. See the post under this thread ; "Seeing is Believing " posted April 29th. 2015.

 

[jorglueke]

With those two fenders I lea more towards the second as the bare metal on an old bike seems more distracting. Light rust on the bottom if it's sealed in with wax shouldn't get worse should it?

 

[SirMike1983]

With those two fenders I lea more towards the second as the bare metal on an old bike seems more distracting. Light rust on the bottom if it's sealed in with wax shouldn't get worse should it?

Yeah- that's what I mean by more "consistent". Even after you polish that paint, you have the bare metal sections that stick out somewhat. The brown meshes with the condition and age a bit better, even if not perfectly clean. If you are going to "patch" the paint with matching paint touch-up later, the bare metal is a better base though. This used to be norm (as were primo restorations), but today pure originality is the stronger condition, even with the bare/rusty metal.

Sealing it will slow further rust, though you're never totally in the clear once the metal surface is exposed. But it's manageable either way if you keep the bike in a dry place out of the weather and keep it clean.